jim,
has your switch failed to make electrical contact or has it literally
broken? the reason i ask is, a mechanical switch needs to be properly
installed as not to act as a stop for the brake pedal. it must be adjusted
to break contact just before the pedal comes to rest on it's stop( read that
almost at the same time). the switch will fail if it is not properly
adjusted to not be the pedal stop. the hydraulic type switches that are
currently on the market seem to not last long for one reason or another and
most who are experiencing this type of switch failure are converting over to
a mechanical switch. i have 3 race cars using the lucas hydraulic switch
with no failures. so i'm nottheexpert on hydraulic switch failures other
than what i have read posted here.
chuck.
----- Original Message -----
From "Jim Juhas" <james.f.juhas at snet.net>
To: "Spridget" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2001 1:30 PM
Subject: [Fwd: Brake Light Switch]
> Having not had any response to my question, I thought I
> would resend. I must have hit a lull period. Any help
> would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Brake Light Switch
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 13:04:29 -0400
> From: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
> Reply-To: Jim Juhas <james.f.juhas@snet.net>
> To: Spridget <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>
> The brake light switch on my wife's 1969 Sprite stopped
> working this weekend. I replaced it last year with one from
> Moss. Can someone steer me to a better supplier for this
> part? This is the mechanical version. I am thinking of
> inserting a pressure switch into the brake line (rear,
> probably). Has anyone else made this modification?
> Pressure switches seem much more reliable, and are so much
> cheaper, too.
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