Jeff,
Great content. Thanks for sharing this.
Regarding your Q-5, you should have two drilled cotter pin holes in the
axle that are 90 degrees apart. One will usually provide a better postion
that the other for installing the cotter pin and maintaining tightness.
Gerard
>Dear Spridgeteers,
>
>I have finally fixed my hub endfloat/wobble problem by installing
>Timken roller bearings. To refresh your memories (and in case you are
>interested!), I had tested every combination of three hubs, two stub
>axle spindle assemblies, and four sets of stock ball bearings in an
>effort to rid my left front hub of wobble. I've tested new ball
>bearings with plastic cages and used bearings (the old R & M) with
>metal cages. None worked. I don't know if there is a batch of 'bad'
>new bearings out in the community. I don't know if the old R & M
>bearings were shot. I don't know if there is something peculiar about
>the hubs and spindle assemblies.
>
>I contacted Timken, the makers of the roller bearings, about how to
>install their product. Below is that email conversation. I hope it
>provides some illumination to the group. Note, however, that opinions
>on whether to use the spacer and what to torque the axle nut to are
>issues of controversy. You do what you want, you are responsible for
>those decisions and actions. :)
>
>Jeff
>
>5. This is my last question: I've installed the roller bearings on
>the driver side and they work great. The hub on that side seems to
>run a little warmer than the other side, which still has the old ball
>bearings. However, if I loosen the hub nut one notch back (to allow
>installation of the split pin), there is way too much end float. Is
>the "extra warmth" normal and acceptable?
>
>The bearings will go through a running in period. This period is
>characterised by higher running temperatures. It will typically last
>for a few hundred miles.
>
>---
>
>Thanks again for your time and thoughts. It is really pleasant
>dealing with knowledgeable and responsive people.
>
>
>Jeff
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E A
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