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Re: Side curtains

To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Side curtains
Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2002 00:02:51 EDT
In a message dated 4/28/02 6:21:07 AM, d.carpenter7@verizon.net writes:

<< I have the guys in our prototype shop available to cut new plexi for my 
side curtains. How do you remove and replace it?? Bend it until it pops 
out of the track? I can get felt from my wife, she works at JoAnn 
Fabrics. The rubber outer edges are pretty shot, anybody buy 
replacements and from who?

 >>

Hi Dave Carpenter:

Bob likes to put the frame in his shop mate to hold it, then move the plexi 
to the middle of the frame, hold the plexi on the center and bend then it 
will pop out.  Face shield and gloves are recommended, on occasion the plexi 
will shatter.  Bob recomends to buy one piece of plexi for each side curtain. 
 This should be as tall as the pieces that are removed and about an inch 
longer than the two pieces when fitted with the diagonal cuts together.   
This will give you material of the proper height with only the ends to be 
cut.  You want the single piece of material so when you cut the major 
diagonal, a single cut, the two parts for that window will match.  With the 
paper still on the new material use the old plexi to draw the outline of the 
windows. Be sure to put the two diagonal edges next to each other and with a 
gap the same as the thickness of the blade that you are going to use to cut 
the material.   Then cut the material before removing the paper.

All edges should be finished, since this is where deterioration tends to 
start if they aren't.   There are seveal ways to finish the edges and it also 
depends on the material, acrylic or polycarbonate.  A 3/8 x 1 (or so) piece 
of finished plexi glued in the logical place makes a nice handle.

We got our replacement rubber from either VB or Moss.  Bob ended up cutting 
the corner joints of the rubber and filing down the corner welds inside the 
channel in order to get this stuff installed in the T channel.  We used Syl 
Glyde lubricant to help the process along, which makes it very easy.  Then 
use "Zap-A-Gap CA+" to rebond the joints of the rubber seals.  I understand Za
p-a-Gap is most likely the be available at hobby shops catering to remote 
control vehicles, etc.

I assume you have my post from yesterday or so about the felts, so won't 
repeat that stuff.  I did get a little confused about which Dave I was 
addressing, but I'm okay now.

Good Luck

Annice & Bob
1960 Bugeye (Mk. IV in disguise)
1966 Sprite Mk. III (Still in Boxes)

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