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Mike -
The switch is "normally open", and is closed when the shuttle is
pushed to one side or the other. No current flow unless the little
pip on the end gets shoved to one side.
If the "push to test" doesn't work, figure the bulb is burned out.
When you reassemble everything and bleed the system, you have to do a
final "bleed" to center the shuttle.
I know of no repair kit for the little beast, but it uses commonly
available o-rings (at least the post-75 one does).
> Doing some break (err. Brake) work this weekend and took off the
pressure
> imbalance sensor. The trouble light has never worked on the 74
since I've
> owned it (~85 or so); press on the button, nothing happens. At this
point I
> don't know if it is as simple as a burnt out light bulb, the plastic
sensor,
> or the guts of the brass doodad. Since it is off at the moment and
easier
> to get at than the light bulb, I thought I'd check out the plastic
sensor.
>
> How do the electrics in this little devil work. Should current
freely pass
> from one electrode to the other when in the normal position, or does
a
> torque on the center contact create a closed circuit and allow
current to
> flow. Any insights are appreciated. I'll put a meter on it in the
next
> night or two.
>
> My Haynes manual also discusses taking apart the brass assembly,
checking
> for scoring in the piston, and then replacing the seals. Are these
parts
> still available?
>
> Thanks as always,
>
> Mike Gagne
> 74 Midge
> Chapel Hill, NC
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