I'll just add my 2 cents. The jack method only really works if you have
substanital weight (like the engine installed) in the front of the car. Since
my engine is out (and my parts cars have no engine) I used the slave bolt
method. 5/16 threaded rod. Mine were close to 6" long, which is almost too
long. 4" should do well for you. If you can find 4" fully threaded bolts, all
the better. I dont'have an air ratchet, though, so it was quite tedious, but it
worked.
-=Chris
Chris King - cbking@alum.rpi.edu
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kvcbk/
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From "David Lieb" <dbl at chicagolandmgclub.com>
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 09:30:19 -0600
>Glenn,
>Keep an open mind on the jack technique. If you have an air ratchet, the
>long bolt method (Go out and buy a chunk of 5/16" all-thread and cut it to
>suit) could be do-able, IF you lock the double nuts where you can access
>them with the ratchet; but it is tedious beyond description.
>If you think about the jack method, it is safer with fewer things to go
>wrong.
>When you jack up from beneath the spring pan and raise the shock link off of
>its stop, there is no spring pressure on the top of the kingpin at all.
>Undoing that upper trunion bushing bolt poses virtually no risk to you. At
>that point you can lower the jack from the safety of a standing position the
>length of your jack handle away from any conceivable dangers. To me, that is
>infinitely preferable to gradually releasing an old and possibly brittle
>spring with my hands right there.
>FWIW YMMV etc
>David Lieb
>1972 RWA Midget
>1973 RWA Project
>1974 RWA Warrior
>
>----- Original Message -----
>> I'm planning on getting started on a front-end rebuild over the
>Thanksgiving
>> holiday weekend. Keep your fingers crossed.
>>
>> What size bolts do I need if I'm going to use the slave bolt method to
>remove
>> the front springs? I'm much more comfortable with that than with using a
>> jack.
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