Another troublesome point is the slipping of the end of the side gaskets away
from the cork junction. How I've overcome that is a tip from a Triumph guy who
used to have a shop next to me. It's using guide pins. Take 4 1/4"28 bolts
that are about 1 3/4" long, cut off the heads and slot that end with a hacksaw.
Now screw each one into the bolt holes closest to the main caps. Depending on
whether the engine is in the car or on the bench is how you place the gaskets,
but either way the guide bolts slip into the corresponding holes in the side
gaskets and now the pan gets placed on the engine. Start a few bolts to hold
the pan in place and then get all the others in place, tighten them all up
lightly and now unscrew the guide bolts and place the remaining 4 pan bolts in
place. Torque them all to about 6 ft lbs and the job is done!!
"Tim L. Creger" wrote:
> Eddie,
>
> Little do you realize you just saved me (and perhaps others) the same
> fate. I was one day away from installing my pan, and had my Haynes
> manual out, looking at torque values, thinking: "20 pounds! Man, I hope
> I don't strip those little bolts."!
>
> The same thing is likely true for oil pump bolts, front and rear end
> plate bolts, and the front end cam plate bolts. All are the smaller
> bolts into the block (except for the few 5/16" in the front end plate).
>
> I find this list invaluable for this sort of info. for an amateur like
> me. THANKS LISTERS!!
>
> Tim C.
>
> esheffield wrote:
> >
> > Thanks to all for the help with my oil pan install problem. Basically
>screwed it up good, so I'm getting new gaskets and bolts and starting over.
>Aggravating thing is I was trying to be *so* careful, referring to the manuals
>and all. Just my luck that Haynes was screwed up. Seems that everything I do
>exhibits the same irony - try to be really careful and it turns out crap. Go
>at something really half-assed and it comes out perfect. Go figure.
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