Think I found the problem with Bugsy's loose steering rack. Rack was replaced
several months ago. When I had both front wheels off of the ground I noticed a
tremendous amount of movement and flex in the steering rack right by the pinion
gear. Nothing one would notice unless wheels were off of the ground and you
were looking at the rack and moved wheels back and forth from lock to lock
rapidly. Even though the U Brackets for the steering rack appear to fit the
same in both directions they are not. There is a slight angle to the bracket
and if assembled backwards, the back bolt is just a hair too long and bottoms
out on the back bolt hole. Too much Loctite on the bolts could have a similar
effect on the back bolt holes. Bracket appears tight but it doesn't totally
compress and grab the rack. I did replace all of 4 bolts on the rack. They did
appear to be a stock size. I solved the problem by making sure bracket was
assembled in the correct way and added a washer on each of the back bolts.
Small piece of inner tube glued to top bracket and problem is resolved. Rack is
solid and does not move. Will be curious to see how the steering feels now.
Thanks to Gerard and Dave Leib for their excellent help in trying to solve this
problem.
Gerard <pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com> wrote: Jim,
This is a real easy fix, keep it simple. Electrical tape wont worl
bucause it doesn't have any durability. Cut your rubber strips with a
razor blade to be exactly the width of the collars on the steering
rack. The length you need is dependent on the thickness of the
material. Start longer than you need and experiment with how much of
the circumference you need to cover so that the rack does NOT stand
proud of the curve in the bracket, but is still a snug fit. Once you
clamp it down, it won't move sideways. I've done this on all my
assemblies and it works great. Keep in mind if your usung the steering
wheel horn button, that you need to make sure you are getting a ground
somwhere.
Let me know if you have more questions.
gerard
At 5:08 AM -0800 12/20/02, James Gruber wrote:
>Gerard,
>
>Do you leave any extra material hanging out the sides. It appears as
if I'm getting movement from side to side as well as up and down within
the bracket. Brackets don't appear to be worn smooth or anything. I
remember buying / pulling a piece of inner tube from trash can at local
bike shop. I recall cutting a piece to fit and not being able to
assemble the clamp. I think? I opted for multiple layers of electrical
tape possibly instead. Its been several months since I had these
brillant ideas of course and my brain has a way of discarding
information that I don't deem critical anymore. David Lieb mentions
something compound-in-a-can? That is applied to both sides of the
bracket, Number 575 something or other. Any ideas. Would replacing the
bracket/clamp help. Again they don't appear worn. Thanks for the help.
You start one thing and suddenly another one pops up. I noticed top
D.S. Motor Mount bolt on top of rubber pad was all worn out. Gas Line
which secures to this same bolt was not clamped down. Discovered that
this bolt was all worn. Further investigation revealed that only 2 of 3
motor mount to frame bolts had been installed by P.O. when Bugsy's
motor was trasnplanted. I'm sure this accounts for the huge driveline
flex when I place car in reverse and let out the clutch. Doesn't seem
to affect forward motion but this could account for some of the
driveline buzzing / rattle when I exceed 4k RPM's. Need to get this
mechanical stuff done so I can move on to bodywork on the Bugeye
Bonnet.Temps went up to 60 on Wed and Bugsy was all apart in the
garage. He was anxious to get out and play. Finished up installing set
of Peter C's shocks for the rear. When I replaced fronts it made a huge
difference. Couldn't believe the effect the rear shocks had also.
Driving can best be described as "sweet". Take care.
>
>
>
> Gerard <
wrote:
>
>Jim,
>
>If you were trying to wrap the inner tube completely around the rack,
that
>will likely be too much (as you say). Using a strip 1/2 to 2/3rd the
>circuference should work fine. you don't need to disassemble anything
to
>place the strips other that remove the top clamps and lift the rack
enough
>to slip the strips underneath. On top is fine too. I do mine with a
strip
>of fabric reinforced neoprene from a sheet I bought from Orchard
Supply
>Hardware.
>
>Gerard
>
>
>At 9:56 PM -0800 12/19/02, James Gruber wrote:
>>I was in the process of changing motor mounts and doing some
maintenance
>>on the steering rack, adding some additional 90W Gear Oil. With
wheels off
>>of the ground I began moving rack back and forth to distribute gear
oil I
>>was adding to access port on left side of the rack, facing the car.
Much
>>to my dismay, I can see that the entire rack moves around as wheels
move
>>back and forth. Clamps are absolutely as tight as I can make them
and
>>locktite holds them fast. When I replaced the rack earlier this year,
I
>>wrapped area where clamps hold the rack in place with electrical
tape. I
>>tried a piece of rubber inner tube but that appeared to be too much
of a
>>shim in there. So what does one use to make sure rack is not free
floating
>>under the clamps. Or perhaps it is designed to work that way.
Certainly
>>doesn't sound right to me.
>>
>>Assuming its the piece of rubber inner tube trick. Can I raise the
rack up
>>to add a piece of inner tube on the underside by loosening the shock
>>absorber bolts or do I need to take the top of the kingpin apart. I
just
>>did this 3 months ago, and haven't yet cogitated on what I did to
make
>>things loose up there. How soon I forget the 4 letter words that I
uttered
>>during the project of rebuilding the front end.
>>
>>Thanks in advance for everyone's help and advice.
>>
>>
>>Jim Gruber
>>Bugsy '68 Sprite (future Bugeye in disguise)
>>Dayton, OH
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>Jim Gruber
>Bugsy '68 Sprite (future Bugeye in disguise)
>Dayton, OH
>
>
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Jim Gruber
Bugsy '68 Sprite (future Bugeye in disguise)
Dayton, OH
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