John,
The clamp on thermocouples were the only ones we used. They
are somewhat fragile and can be damaged during engine changes. The
number that we looked for was to stay under 1300 degrees.
Regards,
Tom Speed
Charlotte, NC
-----Original Message-----
From John.Deikis at med.va.gov [mailto:John.Deikis@med.va.gov]
Sent: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 10:04 AM
To: racerbob70@yahoo.com; tspeed@carolina.rr.com; John.Deikis@med.va.gov
Cc: Spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Spridget panhard bar
Bob:
I had come to the conclusion that a "twin needle" EGR with two
thermocouples would be a pretty important tool, particularly with SU's
where the adjusting is all done at the fat end of the metering needle
and has virtually no relationship to what your getting when your "toggle
switch" is to the floor. I bought a gauge, but have not gotten to
welding in the bungs for the sensors. Wondering if you think the clamp
on thermocouples would work okay. I don't want to pull my header and
unwrap all that nice fiberglass header wrap. --JohnD
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Van Kirk [SMTP:racerbob70@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Saturday, January 11, 2003 6:39 PM
> To: Tom Speed; 'Deikis, John'
> Cc: Spridget List
> Subject: RE: Spridget panhard bar
>
> Gentlemen,
> Been following your post on race motors and would
> like to add some info. The best diagnostic tool I
> ever purchased was a Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge. I
> use a dual unit placed in the pod for the speedo where
> it is quite inconspicuous (vintage racing). You can
> watch what timing and needle swapping/adjustment can
> do right away and no guess work. You wouldn't believe
> what altitude and humidity can do to your settings. I
> run much higher comp rations then mentioned here and
> hand grenaded engines on a regular basis but (knock on
> wood) never since I've had the gauge. If your
> interested go to www.pegasusautoracing.com.
>
> Bob
>
>
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