David,
I usually use the front stud on the exhaust manifold and a rear
transmission bolt above the starter. Requires removing the manifolds
and one existing bolt from the tranny and using a longer one with a
length of chain. I have never bent a manifold stud, but substitute a
grade 5 or 8 bolt if you wish. make sure to use a couple washers on
either side of the chain as well. You could also add a couple study
"L" brackets to the head studs and use those.
Gerard
At 12:50 PM -0500 6/9/03, David Lieb wrote:
>I spent Saturday pulling the engine out of my 72 Midget in order to replace
>the clutch release bearing. Everything went relatively well, but I am not
>very happy with my current options for attaching the hoist to the engine.
>Having pulled too many small-block Chevy V8s out in the past, I really loved
>and appreciated the tiltbar with the crank and the chains to bolt to the
>block so as to be able to crank that thing around and snake it into that
>engine compartment relatively cleanly. Unfortunately, the A-Series doesn't
>seem to have much in the way of convenient attachment points.
>I know that you can use the valve cover studs, but I am not comfortable with
>subjecting them to the lateral stresses involved in tilting the engine.
>I have contemplated getting a couple of nylon straps long enough to go under
>the oil pan front and back and attach them to the tilt bar, but I figured I
>would find out what the rest of you have come up with first.
>No, I am not interested in hearing about how you just ask a couple of
>friends over and lift it out with your bare hands. I want to know how you
>have attached a tilt bar to an A-Series.
>David Lieb
>Wish all the sheetmetal on the front of my car came off in one piece...
>
--
One meets his destiny often in the road he takes to avoid it.
~French Proverb
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/spridgets
|