I disagree.
The panhard bar does not push the spring sideways. Movement of the car and
cornering forces push the spring sideways and the panhard rod prevents that
sideways movement.
Also the Panhard rod isn't by any means the best way to control lateral
movement but just happens to be what is available off the shelf right now. I
guess
some time soon Tom Colby will have developed an old idea that can be used on
road and race spridget that we can all buy off the shelf from him.
I'd be very interested in a discussion, about the merits of torque sensing V
speed sensing diffs.
Regards
Daniel1312
In a message dated 02/10/03 07:55:03 Pacific Daylight Time, dhwname@yahoo.com
writes:
> Jackson is on the correct track, but you need to be
> careful with the rear panhard bar or you will end up
> with serious "binding" which will cause instant
> oversteer. The basic problem is that the panhard bar
> and the 1/4 ellip springs move on different arcs. The
> panhard bar tries to push the spring sideways and
> binds. You obviously don't have this problem with coil
> overs. The springs were originally designed to provide
> horizontal control, but are not up to the task for
> sticky tires at race speeds. If you are still running
> the four link rear binding is even more probable.
>
> The solution is to arrange the 1/4 ellipticals to
> provide the freedom to act like coil overs and use the
> panhard bar for horizontal control as it should be.
> There are a number of ways to do this, but the
> simplest is to open up the mounts on the ends of the
> springs to allow movement (space) on both sides. I
> used 1/4" on both sides. I also ground the sides of
> the springs flat. I also went to a three link sytem by
> installing a third link on the top side of erthe rear
> banjo. Jim Roberts mechanic (John Stamps) gave me this
> advice.
>
> I had Landrum Springs make up some custom 1/4 ellip
> springs of slightly different thickness. Allowed
> slight changes when scaling the car. I also had good
> results from the aftermarket springs from MM.
>
> BTW placing the spacers on the bottom of the springs
> lowers the car. A quick way to lower and reduce spring
> pressure at the track without spacers is to simply
> move a spring to the other side of the stack.
>
> The 540lb front springs are the absolute minimums for
> road racing, especially if you have any elevation
> changes such as Road Atlanta or Mid Ohio. My car
> oversteered the most when the nose pointed down. The
> above changes and seriously strong front springs
> seemed to cure the problem. Prior to these changes I
> had to tip toe through turn 12 at RA.
>
> I have never driven a Sprite on public roads. I'm
> chicken, so I can't comment on road spring rates.
>
> Most groups will allow you to run tube shocks on the
> rear of sprites, and they are a major improvement,
> especially for adjustability.
>
>
> Lastly unless you can unweight the rear inside wheel
> like Dave J, Colby and Jim Roberts, locked (welded)
> rear ends tend to cause a push-loose. The car
> initially pushes, causing you to turn in more, thus
> slowing the car (you may also slow because of the
> push), as the car slows, the front end is able to
> generate enoough grip to turn the car, when it does
> the additional steering input becomes effective and
> you think that you have a loose car. The solution is a
> limited slip, I'll avoid the discussion on the
> different merits of the different types of LS's.
>
> I found that there are major improvements available
> from changes in the supspensions of sprites.
>
> Hope this diatribe is of some benefit.
>
> Doug Wilson
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