Chris...
I percieve. I would go exactly the same
way you went on the needles for exactly
the same reasons....sounds logical to me.
The thing is, this is not a racing application. It's a fairly mild road
tune...
just a step "up" or so, and your choice
of needle is definitely in the ballpark....
unless you misread the tiny coding on
the needles and have something other
than what you should have (not likely,
I admit but, you never know!:)
Chris, when you pull off the suction chambers:
1.Take the air valves out and
check that the butterflies are opening
and closing correctly without binding as
you work the throttle cable.
2. Put the air valves back in and make
sure the valves are moving "freely" within
their respective jets. IOW, the jets appear
"centered". There should be NO binding
whatsoever.
3. Refill the tubes and fasten down the
suction chambers and again, check for
free movement of the needle in the jet
through the entire travel of the air valve,
the valves falling to the jet bridge with
the infamous "dull thunk".
If all is working well as above, I would
recheck the fuel level in the bowls and
after check for proper setting, would make
absolutely sure that mechanical pump
is filling the bowls as the engine is cranked over.
The very fact the choke pulls the jets down to well below the "correctly
set" fuel
bowl fuel level is where the "extra" fuel comes from for a more rich
mixture when
the choke is "pulled".
And this engine will only run with a grossly rich setting, right? So, if
we
think logically about this, the fuel level
in the bowls for normal running must be
much lower than it should be due to
either inappropriate setting or lack of proper supply?
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)
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