If you broke off the head of the bolt, it should not be very
difficult to remove the threaded portion as the remaining portion
should be no more than finger tight (unless it's cross-threaded or
something). I don't remember exactly on the 1500's but I recall that
banjo bolt is in the block, not the head(??).
Gerard
At 6:03 PM +0100 5/23/04, Antony wrote:
>This feels almost untrue. There I was, oil changed, and rocker oil feed
>pipe connected. There is a banjo bolt at the top of the pipe that goes
>into a hole at the back of the cylinder head. I had leaks at the bottom
>of the pipe, where it connects to the oil pressure switch. In order to
>sort this, I has to first loosen the aforementioned banjo bolt at the
>top. I tightened the bottom up nicely.
>
>Here's the rub. The banjo has copper washers on both sides of the pipe.
>These are so soft that they must be "use once". After my loosening
>above, when I restarted the car, there was leaking from the top. But
>rather than thinking, I started to tighten the top bolt again to cure
>the leak. Naturally, the bolt broke. The leak was of course due to
>loosening those copper washers.
>
>I couldn't feel much more stupid. I now have half a banjo blot stuck in
>the cylinder head. I don't have the urge to tackle it at this minute,
>but when I do, I might have a go with an easyout. As easyouts never
>bring me any luck, read on.
>
>It looks like the head is coming off for removal of the stuck bolt.
>I've never done this before, it's kind of like the last frontier. How
>long (roughly) will this take and what kind of things should I be
>looking to replace whilst undertaking this procedure? I might as well
>try to whack a silver lining on this cloud... I know that for starters,
>I can check the rocker clearances.
>
>A
>--
>MG Midget 1979
>http://www.antgel.co.uk/midget
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