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Re: Bugzuki Update

To: Larry & Sandi Miller <millerls@ado13.com>, William Thompson <willy1959@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bugzuki Update
Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 20:41:10 GMT j2VKhBJn007314
Cc: Bugeye <bugeye@yahoogroups.com>, Spridget <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Well Larry...

I would recommend some sort of cold air
box fed by a 3-4" tube (from the grille area
or thereabouts) within which could reside
a K&N cone filter. I don't know how much
room you've got in there but Jacques 
LaClainche has such a set-up on his BE.

Looks like a modified mailbox which I have
a feeling it probably is. But it works and looks the part. Ashley Hinton also 
manufactures a cold air box as well but I'm
not sure it's large enough for dual "40"'s....
probably not.

Also bear in mind you can go with shorter
velocity stacks (or even "stub stacks) and
TWM provides the very effective 270 degree
softly curved "improved" types over what
I see you're currently running.

The thing is, you want "filtered" free breathing and not only to save the 
internals of the engine, but to ensure to
the extent possible filtered air to the
Weber's idle/progression system which
have a separate intake from the main system, which "socks" will not cover.

You will find the Webers are very sensitive
to contamination in the form of fine grit,
which can block their internal channels
(and jets) and this is most especially true
in the case of the really teeny-tiny idle/progression system channels/outlets.

In order to maintain idle and smoothness
of initial "off-idle" operation when GENTLE
throttle is used, it is imperative that these
channels remain 100% unobstructed.

This will not be possible unless you filter
their source of inducted air. And you will
know when this happens as your idle and
progression "quality" will begin going
south for no apparent reason at all.

The problem goes further in that to really
clean out the channels 100%, you'll basically
have to remove the carb(s) from the motor,
the jets and "caps" from the carb, and spray
the internals through with Gumout through a "stick". I used to go through this
at least once a year, whether I used K&N
sealing grease or not. Used to do my "45"
over a pan just to see how much of the tiny little "grains" of sand/grit or 
whatever had
found a home within the carb over the past
year or so. Amazing!!! 

And while the SU will tolerate fairly large corrosive particles from an older 
gas tank,
the Webers won't tolerate any. The idle/
progression systems on a performance
Weber will pack up in a
heartbeat under these circumstances.

Bottom line....you need excellent air 
and gasoline filters on a performance
Weber(s) or driveability will suffer
accordingly. 

Cap'n Bob
BTDT Frog





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