Dan,
The factory manual calls for 30W down to 32F, 20W from 32F to 10F and
10W for temperatures consistently below 10F. The transmission is 30W
for all conditions. These are also non-detergent oils. I have heard
that non-detergent oils are still available from Pep Boys. I do not
think it makes any difference which type of oil you use for breaking
in the engine as long as it is not synthetic. On my last rebuild I
did the break in with Castrol 10W/30 then switched to synthetic.
Several years back a lister with a background in oil chemistry noted
that the compounds in current detergent oils will attack brass parts
of which there are several in the transmission so I have also use
synthetic there. There are some draw backs to using synthetic oils.
primarily you stand a good chance of having oil leaks where
previously you had none.
Bob Kitterer
1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Mk IV in disguise)
1966 Austin Healey Sprite Mk III (Trevor)
2000 Miata Special Edition
On Jul 31, 2005, at 7:08 PM, Dan Gillitzer wrote:
> Any suggestions on what oil to use? Manual says 10W30. I am
> wondering if the
> old rule still holds about using non-detergent to break in a
> rebuilt engine?
> Multivis or straight grade?
> Also what is recommended for oil in the tranny, and would it be
> better to use
> non detergent in that? It's a 62 948 with a smoothcase.
> I'll have to get antifreeze for it before too long also.
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