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RE: MGB Oil Cooler on a sprite??

To: "'Frank Clarici'" <spritenut@exit109.com>, "'Glen Byrns'" <grbyrns@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: RE: MGB Oil Cooler on a sprite??
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 20:37:44 -0500
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Thread-index: AcXRIjnfbJQ5qviZR0ezUcHDHp93rwABsK7w with any abuse report
Got any leftover pink?

-----Original Message-----
From owner-spridgets at autox.team.net [mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Frank Clarici
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 7:26 PM
To: Glen Byrns
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: MGB Oil Cooler on a sprite??

Glen Byrns wrote:


> If you're going to race the motor, all bets are off.  But for a street 
> motor..........get real(and tight)


Here here!
Flush it out, if it's clean from the get go, use it.
I too have never had an oil cooler, head, or rod bolt failure, and I 
have rebuilt alot of engines.
Sometimes I do use new rod bolt nuts, not all the time.

I also want to know how someone can put 3-4 thousand bucks into an 
engine they already have?
I just finished a rebuild of a 1275, total cost of parts was around $200
No new pistons this time but new rings, bearings, oil pump, gaskets.
the rocker shaft was fine, why mess with something that is fine?
No machine work needed but there again it's only a couple of three 
hundred bucks for all that can be done to an A series head and block 
including a bore. Another $200 for pistons, $150 for a cam, $150 for 
"goodies" and you have about $1000 bucks for an entire fresh new engine.
I get my parts from guys on this list who sell LBC stuff.
which reminds me, I am running low on Morris green engine paint.
Paul A. has the correct stuff.
-- 
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ





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