Dale Gleason wrote:
> 'WHAT I HAVE LEARNED (destroyed) TODAY'
So you let air into the slave cylinder.
You WON"T do that again! ;)
To bleed the clutch, pul;l out the rubber plug on the passenger side
inner footwell. There is a notch in the interior panel at the plug.
Stick a 7/16" wrench on the nipple thru the hole, have someone pump up
the clutch, crack the nipple.
Do this a few times until the pedal is hard. Also due to the angle of
the master, keep a close eye on the fluid. 1/2 a can means it's sucking
air out of the pipe. Have a 2nd assistant watch the juice and top it up
after each squirt of the bleeder.
Pump the pedal, keep it down when you crack the nipple.
Close the nipple, let up on the pedal. Do it again.
As for removing the starter, it's a piece of cake job from the top side.
Again, you will need an assistant to hold the back side of the lower
starter bolt via that same rubber plug hole where you get to the slave.
The top bolt can be done by youself.
It is much easier to do if you pull out the distributor.
Make a mark with a Sharpie pen on the dizzy clamp and dizzy neck.
Loosen the clamp pinch bolt, remove the cap keeping the plug wires on
the plugs, set the cap up on the valve cover or somewhere out of the
way. (pull the wire out of the coil) Note where the rotor is pointing.
Wiggle the dizzy and pop it out.
Now you can get the starter out.
Replace the dizzy. It will almost go in 180 out but it will not fully
seat. That's why you noted the rotor direction. Twist the rotor til it
drops in place. Line up your sharpie marks, tighten the clamp.
Popping out the dizzy is also the best way to do a tune up.
Out in a minute, work on it at the bench so those tiny screws don't fall
down the guts of the distributor or down and get lost somewhere behind
the starter.
--
Frank Clarici
Toms River, NJ
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