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Datsun 5 Speed Install Update - Kinda Long

To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Datsun 5 Speed Install Update - Kinda Long
From: rrengineer@dslextreme.com
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 11:13:43 -0700 (PDT)
     After a week of working on my Bugeye that has sat dormant for almost
two years, Gerard and I finally got the second Datsun transmission in
and working.  This engine and transmission swap for the original
engine and smoothcase transmission has been plagued by problems from
the beginning.  After the first installation of the 1275 and first
Datsun transmission, I bed in the cam and followers with 20 minutes
of 2000 rpm at first start-up, but did not fill the used Datsun
tranny with oil first.  Everyone's best guess was that I had "welded"
first gear to the shaft by not having oil in the transmission while
doing this because you could not change gears anymore after that and
the engine would turn when you pushed the car like it was stuck in
gear no matter where the gear shift lever was.  We took that
transmission apart this week and did NOT find the 1st gear welded to
the shaft.  It is a linkage issue we have not figured out yet.  I
gave this transmission to Gerard to play with for helping me with the
swap.  The "new" transmission rebuilt by Paul A. that is in the car
now works perfectly, but we have had other problems.  I am using
Paul's adapter kit with my original 948 slave cylinder.  As many of
you you know, Paul's kit uses a 1275 flywheel that he machines to
match the Datsun clutch components.  Gerard also made a remote clutch
slave cylinder bleeder by bending some tubing and screwing one flared
end into the slave cylinder and putting a bleed nipple on the other
end of the tubing that sits just in front of the Bugeye heater above
the engine.  This makes bleeding easier.  Just attach a clear tube to
the bleeder nipple and put the other end of the tube into the master
cylinder.  A closed circuit!  Just pump until there are no bubbles. 
The problems we are having are with pedal pressure and travel.  After
much fiddling with adjustments of the slave cylinder rod and clutch
master rod, the best we have been able to come up with is having the
pedal go almost halfway to the floor before you feel pressure.  The
rest of the movement is very hard pressure.  The clutch "catches"
about half way up from the short hard movement and if you are not
careful, you will squeel the tires.  Paul has suggested changing to a
1275 slave cylinder, but I am wondering if this will change the
action of the clutch very much other than the pressure on the pedal. 
I don't mind the hard pressure, I can get used to it, but such a
short throw at the bottom of the travel just does not seem right.  As
some on the list have suggested, yes the the disk was removed from
the clutch fingers.  The throw out bearing is riding directly onto
the springs.  Has anyone had any similar problems?  Solutions?
     As an aside, the rust bubbles on the bottom of the left hand "A"
pillar has been repaired by Gerard's bodywork buddies.  Replaced the
bottom hinge.  Amazing all the rust trapped in there.  The Bondo and
primer go on today, but there won't be time to get it painted before
I have to return to San Bernardino.    Even this job was only
partially successful as we had intended to paint the reapir before I
left.
     As we all know these cars do not like to sit for very long periods of
time.  We discovered the left rear brake cylinder leaking as well as
the master cylinder at the pushrods.  Not sure if it is the clutch
rod or the brake rod, but if it is the clutch rod, this may be part
of the clutch problem also.  It never ends.  I will be replacing the
clutch slave cylinder with a 1275 unit and rebuilding the master
cylinder and leaking brake cylinder.  I hopes this improves the
clutch.
Mike MacLean
60 Sprite "cursed"
56 BN2




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