Continued...
Charles also said that he doesn't think it is a good idea to raise the Zn
and P levels more than around 200 ppm or so with DIY additives as you are
changing the chemistry of your oil when you do that. He said it is much
better to just buy the correct oil in the first place that has been put
together by the people who actually know what they are doing.
He likes Brad Penn and Swepco 306. (By the way, for you racers, he said the
Swepco rated a little higher on the dyno than the Brad Penn.) Amalie is the
same stuff as Brad Penn. You will probably need to mail order these unless
your local HiPo engine builders or hot rod shop carries them. For break-in
oils, he likes Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs. They have very low detergent
levels, though, so change them after about 100 miles, 200 max. The Castrol
HD 30 should be OK for break-in, too, and cheaper and easier to find. (They
have it at my local Wal-Mart.)
Charles also said that the motorcycle oils are also good. They are still
formulated for flat tappets and have good levels of Zn and P and don't have
the calcium detergents. Acceptable ones are Mobil One V-Twin, Royal Purple
Max Cycle, and Amsoil Harley. He said that Amsoil, despite their marketing
methods, puts out a good oil. The MC oils have a lower total base number
(TBN) -- which is the amount of alkalinity available to deal with acids in
your oil. The Brad Penn has a very high TBN.
He said that virtually none of the oils carried in AutoZone or Puke Boys,
etc. is any good anymore. Lots of these companies are re-formulating their
oils on a regular basis and not saying so on their labels. Anything that
says "ashless anti-wear technology", or similar, is poison -- stay away.
The old stand bys like Pennzoil VR-1 and Castrol GTX are no good anymore.
The Pennzoil VR-1 that is not street legal , like most, but not all, racing
oils has good levels of Zn and P, but very little detergent. That is fine
if you are racing and changing your oil after every weekend. That won't
work on your normal street car.
As to oil changes, he said that cars with carbs and 4 to 5 quart oil
capacities should be changed at 2500 miles. With FI, you can go to 3000.
He also gave us some insight into oil filters. He likes WIX, NAPA Gold,
Mobil 1 and K&N Gold. He said Fram absolutely sucks and that Purolator,
while filtering very well, restricts flow too much. Mann, if you can find
them, are also good.
Larry Daniels
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