spridgets
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [Spridgets] Engine stand for rebuilding..

To: Spridget Group Chat <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Engine stand for rebuilding..
From: Kitterer Bob <bkitterer@mac.com>
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 17:38:46 -0700
I have used the factory rocker arm cover studs for years to pull and  
reinstall the engine/transmission/drive shaft and have never had a  
problem.  Must of been those fancy studs that caused the problem :-)

Bob Kitterer

1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Mk IV in disguise)
1966 Austin Healey Sprite Mk III (Trevor)
2000 Miata Special Edition




On May 16, 2008, at 3:00 PM, Bob Spruck wrote:

> I had a bad experience (a really bad experience!) lifting the 1275  
> out of
> my ' 67 by the recommended rocker arm studs. Yes, the special  
> hardened ARP
> stud broke and the engine dropped tailshaft between the chassis  
> rails and
> oil pan onto the panel where the hood latch latches. No damage was  
> done
> except to the stud, the panel, and my garage floor (big chip).
>
> So, in my inimitable fashion, I over engineered a solution. I use a  
> piece
> of angle iron that attaches to the manifold studs on one side and
> fabricated an "H" shaped bracket from 1" square tubing that  
> attaches to the
> rear alternator bosses near the distributor.  A welded tab on each  
> bracket
> is located across from each other so that the engine is balanced  
> and can be
> tilted easily to get around the battery shelf and the front cross  
> member. (
> I usually pull the transmission with the engine and have partially  
> removed
> part of the heater plenum. Did I mention this is a vintage race car  
> and I
> don't need the heater?) The "H" bracket has holes that match up to  
> my cheap
> engine stand, so I can bolt it up right from the engine lift. This  
> means
> that the engine is perpendicular to the rotating piece on the  
> stand. It
> allows me to work on the top of the engine and then rotate it to  
> work on
> the bottom end very easily. Attaching it by the side of the block  
> rather
> than by the flywheel end, allows me to work on the clutch,  
> flywheel, etc.
> The only problem I have had is the rear engine plate can interfere  
> with the
> rotation in one direction.
>
> Yeah, it took some trouble to design the whole rig and a couple  
> tries at
> dimensions and angles, but it works real well. The brackets that  
> come with
> most engine stands are designed to join the rotating plate to the bolt
> holes where the transmission attaches to the engine plate. That  
> works, too.
>
>
>
>
>
> At 04:05 PM 5/16/2008 -0500, Lester wrote:
>> Ok oh wise ones..
>>
>> Where would you recommend that I bolt the engine stand, cheap Chinese
>> from Harbor F, to a 948?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Lester
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG.
>> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1446 - Release Date:  
>> 5/16/2008
>> 7:42 AM
>
> Bob Spruck
> MGMaven
> Sharpsburg, GA
> 67 Midget Vintage Racer
> 72 Midget Street and Show
> 6 parts/project cars
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> You are subscribed as bkitterer@mac.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spridgets
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html


http://www.team.net/archive

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spridgets

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>