Hi Kurt,
I've used the copper/steel one forever with no troubles at all. David at
APT asked me how I could be so lucky. So I explained to him (Now to all
youse guys) how it worked for me. He agreed that taking the long time to do
it would have a good effect on the job. This is not a middle of a race
technique!
I use engine oil on all the studs where the nut goes on. Bottom of stud is
lightly tightened with hand pliers in slightly countersunk threaded holes,
no oil. Spray block and head lighly with permatex Hi Tack adhesive. Let it
dry properly. Don't spray the gasket. Then I take a couple hours gradually
tightening the head nuts. As you increase the tightening, you need to back
off the nut a 1/4 turn or so just before you do an additional retorque.
Gradually step it up to the full torque amount, then after it has set a
couple hours, do a last retorque. This is not a production technique, but
it sure works for me. No comebacks ever doing it this way for me.
There is also an assumption that the block and head are properly machined.
Head only, of course, if it's just a valve job. Heads frequently are in
need of a retruing job, so have it checked before doing a reassembly.
Later, Paul A
----- Original Message -----
From: <jjj@acsnet.com>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 5:31 PM
Subject: [Spridgets] Gasket Query
> Wondering who makes the best head gasket. I've had no luck with the
> copper/steel sandwich over the years so fitted a Payen composite last.
> Obviously great quality but the section between the cylinders was awfully
> thin. Anyone used Felpro? Any suggestions welcome.
> Tnx, Kurt.
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