Oops, I forgot a zero, about 1000 miles.
I've reading quite a bit on the E85 web sites,
no one mentioned about it being corrosive, are you sure you're not thinking
of Methanol? It is very corrosive.
Most people do it with fuel injection vehicles, but here's a
snippet of one post about converting a carb'd engine.
1.
Buy fuel filters. A lot of 'em. Carry the tools you need to change
them after the conversion; you'll need 'em. E85 will loosen a
humongous amount of rust, sludge, and other gunk from your fuel tank.
2.
Inspect the entire fuel system for any incompatibilities. Metal fuel
lines and parts should be ok if they're in good shape. Natural rubber
and cork are no-no's. Napa sells some nice "multi-fuel compatibility"
hose. They call it fuel injection hose. It works great with E85.
3.
Get a complete carburetor rebuild kit, and a new fuel pump if you can't
remember when you put a new one on. If there's even a shred of a
chance the old fuel pump is old enough to not be built for ethanol,
replace it. Fuel in the oil is a bad thing.
4. Some old
carburetor parts are not ethanol compatible, which is why the rebuild
kit. The kit *should* have compatible parts in it (E10 and all that).
After
all that's sorted out, it's a matter of finding the right jets, setting
the idle, and playing around with the timing. You'll like E85 in that
respect since you'll be able to set the timing for best power. You'll
probably want lighter distributor springs for a quicker curve, more
vacuum advance, and maybe more advance at idle. I would leave total
advance where it is though. For fuel, I'd start out at about 30%
larger on the jets, and go from there. I haven't converted a
carbureted vehicle yet (my 390's got fuel injection) so maybe others
can help with the carb tuning.
If you really wanted to get fancy you could increase the compression ratio of
the motor, to get better efficiency and power.
+ Last Edit: April 23, 2008,
08:20:19 PM by rusty70f100 ;
As to cost,
Since my car with the compression it's got, I usually have to add either
octane booster or a couple gallons of 100 octane race gas per tank (at $8 a
gallon)
to make it perform its best, maybe $100 a year?
maybe the thing to try is instead of the octane booster or CAM2,
add E85 instead. (at about $2 a gallon)
Another benefit is that E85 runs cooler, bringing temps down.
Downside, it doesn't like cold weather starts, you'd have to run a preheater
of
some sort, and it absorbs water, so at the end of a season, best to fill up
with all gasoline.
Brian S.
Bugeyeracer finally resto'ed!
> Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 19:55:25 -0600
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] E85 Conversion
> From: 72spridget@gmail.com
> To: bugeye15@hotmail.com
>
> > Considering the low mileage I'd do in my Bugeye, less than
> > 100 miles a year, do you think that it would
> > adversely affect the carbs and intake?
>
> It still equates to 365.25 days per year with gas in the float
> chambers. For 100 miles per year, WHY change it??? The fuel savings
> would be about $5 per year if that. Every one of those 100 miles you
> would be trying to sort out some aspect of the conversion. Not worth
> the hassle for less than 5000 miles per year IMHO.
> David L
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