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As far as torque values, please follow the ones that are listed, and put a b=
it of good practice into those that are not. Gerard's website is a great ref=
erence with general UNF torques as well.=20
http://www.gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/torqueSpec.htm
As far as shimming and spacing other areas, do what you have to do to have e=
verything free from tension or compression. You don't want anything preloade=
d. I believed for a long time that you had to struggle to get trunnion, shoc=
k arms etc. lined up without a wrestling match. Once I finally just found ou=
t some decent spacers with Dave Grandeffo showing me that he way, life got m=
uch better. Call for anything you need. =20
Ron Soave
> On Jan 25, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Trevor Jessie via Spridgets <spridgets@autox=
.team.net> wrote:
>=20
> I do not think that is how this list works. I think you are supposed to w=
ork from memory, then post here when it doesn't work. THEN we tell you how i=
t was supposed to be done and mock you.
>=20
> Seriously, though ... the moss diagram is pretty good and there are not to=
o many torque specs. The biggest gotcha is getting the correct number of sh=
ims under the trunnion to have enough play, but not too much.
>=20
>> On Sat, Jan 24, 2015 at 12:58 PM, bmwwxman . via Spridgets <spridgets@aut=
ox.team.net> wrote:
>> Getting ready to start reassembling front and rear suspension on my 1968 M=
KIII Midget. While I thought I had labeled everything well during disassembl=
y a few years ago, I find I have a lot of confusion over where parts go and w=
hich parts are "handed".=20
>>=20
>> Does anyone have a good exploded diagram they could email to me? The Hay=
nes manual I have is not a lot of help and I'm unsure where I need to place (=
and/or replace) washers, spacers, shims, seals...etc. and what various torqu=
es and gaps should be. Failing a good diagram maybe a picture or two of the p=
roper assembly?
>>=20
>> Thanks in advance,
>> --=20
>> Cheers!!
>> Jim=20
>>=20
>> ------------------------
>>=20
>> spridgets@autox.team.net
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>=20
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/trevo=
r.jessie@gmail.com
>=20
> ------------------------
>=20
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/soaver=
o@yahoo.com
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div><span></span></div><div><meta http-equ=
iv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8"><div>As far as to=
rque values, please follow the ones that are listed, and put a bit of good p=
ractice into those that are not. Gerard's website is a great reference with g=
eneral UNF torques as well. </div><div><br></div><div><a href=3D"http:/=
/www.gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/torqueSpec.htm">http://www.gerardsgarage.=
com/Garage/Tech/torqueSpec.htm</a></div><div><br></div><div>As far as shimmi=
ng and spacing other areas, do what you have to do to have everything f=
ree from tension or compression. You don't want anything preloaded. I believ=
ed for a long time that you had to struggle to get trunnion, shock arms etc.=
lined up without a wrestling match. Once I finally just found out some dece=
nt spacers with Dave Grandeffo showing me that he way, life got much better.=
Call for anything you need. <br><br>Ron Soave</div><div><br>On Jan 25=
, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Trevor Jessie via Spridgets <<a href=3D"mailto:sprid=
gets@autox.team.net">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><b=
lockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">I do not think that is how thi=
s list works. I think you are supposed to work from memory, then post h=
ere when it doesn't work. THEN we tell you how it was supposed to be d=
one and mock you.<div><br></div><div>Seriously, though ... the moss diagram i=
s pretty good and there are not too many torque specs. The biggest got=
cha is getting the correct number of shims under the trunnion to have enough=
play, but not too much.</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, Jan 24, 2015 at 12:58 PM, bmwwxman . via Spridgets=
<span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net"; target=3D=
"_blank">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=
=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;paddi=
ng-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr">Getting ready to start reassembling front and r=
ear suspension on my 1968 MKIII Midget. While I thought I had labeled everyt=
hing well during disassembly a few years ago, I find I have a lot of confusi=
on over where parts go and which parts are "handed". <div><br></div><di=
v>Does anyone have a good exploded diagram they could email to me? The=
Haynes manual I have is not a lot of help and I'm unsure where I need to pl=
ace (and/or replace) washers, spacers, shims, seals...etc. and what various t=
orques and gaps should be. Failing a good diagram maybe a picture or two of t=
he proper assembly?</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks in advance,</div><span c=
lass=3D"HOEnZb"><font color=3D"#888888"><div><div>-- <br></div><div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">Cheers!!<br>Jim <br><div style=3D"display:inline"></div><=
div style=3D"display:inline"></div><div style=3D"display:inline"></div></div=
></div>
</div></font></span></div>
<br>------------------------<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";>spridgets@autox.team.net</a><br>=
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"; target=3D"_blank">http://ww=
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ts/trevor.jessie@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/=
options/spridgets/trevor.jessie@gmail.com</a><br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><span>--------------------=
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spridgets@autox.team.net
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