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Hi list,
A bunch of spridgetly brake light switch questions:
The brake light switch on my 69 Sprite is hydraulic and if I gave the pedal
a good hard push works fine and the brake lines come on. However, if I
'dab' the brake pedal or press slowly the brake lights don't come on.
Is the reason for this poor switch action due to air being trapped right
behind the switch sensor or is that unlikely/not possible with any air being
purged when I last bled the brakes, noting the brake pedal is good and
firm. Or is the problem I'm experiencing simply due to the switch going bad
and needs replacing.
I had decided to simply buy a new non-hydraulic/mechanical switch and since
I have both a later pedal box with provision for the mechanical switch and
the later 'hammer head' brake pedal to go with it. However, having
ordered a switch last night but not looked at the pedal box until a moment ago
I
hadn't realised that fitting the mechanical switch requires the pedal box
to be removed.
Other questions:
If I do fit the mechanical switch and want to remove the hydraulic switch
does anyone know what thread it is? I'm guessing it's BSPT and that I'll
have to plug it with NPTF - but which BSPT and NPTF?
If I want to replace the 4 way union altogether I see I can use the 3H424
later 3 way union from a later car which is also the same as the one fitted
to the rear axle (I have a spare).
Anyone done this and any comments on switch life or anything else
whatsoever?
Thanks
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color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3DArial>
<DIV>Hi list,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>A bunch of spridgetly brake light switch questions:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The brake light switch on my 69 Sprite is hydraulic and if I gave the=
pedal=20
a good hard push works fine and the brake lines come on. However, if=
I=20
'dab' the brake pedal or press slowly the brake lights don't come on.</DIV=
>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Is the reason for this poor switch action due to air being trapped ri=
ght=20
behind the switch sensor or is that unlikely/not possible with any ai=
r=20
being purged when I last bled the brakes, noting the brake pedal is good=
and=20
firm. Or is the problem I'm experiencing simply due to the switch goi=
ng bad=20
and needs replacing.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I had decided to simply buy a new non-hydraulic/mechanical switch and=
since=20
I have both a later pedal box with provision for the mechanical switch and=
the=20
later 'hammer head' brake pedal to go with it. However, having order=
ed a=20
switch last night but not looked at the pedal box until a moment ago I had=
n't=20
realised that fitting the mechanical switch requires the pedal box to be=
=20
removed.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Other questions:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If I do fit the mechanical switch and want to remove the hydraulic sw=
itch=20
does anyone know what thread it is? I'm guessing it's BSPT and that=
I'll=20
have to plug it with NPTF - but which BSPT and NPTF?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If I want to replace the 4 way union altogether I see I can use the=
3H424=20
later 3 way union from a later car which is also the same as the one fitte=
d to=20
the rear axle (I have a spare).</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Anyone done this and any comments on switch life or anything else=20
whatsoever?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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spridgets@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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