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Well I fitted the new switch today. I did manage to twist the 2 wires off
it but then made a better job of soldering wires onto the terminals than
whoever made the switch did. I also fitted male spade end connectors so I
could use the existing wiring from the hydraulic switch. For now I've also
left the hydraulic switch and 4-way union in place - removal will be a
future job l will do later.
I don't understand the whole 3mm free play thing. The switch goes from
being off to being on in about 3mm. The switch has to be fully wound into
the pedal box so that with the brake pedal fully up it is fully pressing the
switch contact in. Once the brake pedal is pressed down the switch contact
is released and the brake lights come on. I guess that pressing the brake
pedal puts the brake lights on before the brakes are on, maybe not such a
bad thing. I do have some future brake hydraulic stuff planned so will
leave things as they are for now.
I plan on fitting a couple of small zip ties to the switch to hold it
together since it only has flimsy crimping doing so at present.
At some point I'll get the inner wing modified so I can replace the switch
without unbolting the pedal box (also need to fit captive nuts to the
inside of the car where the existing ones rusted/stripped out forcing the use
of
a nut and an assistant to hold a spanner on it. I do have ARP stainless
bolts retaining the pedal box now so won't have the same issue in the future
(I guess BMC didn't use copper grease on the factory install).
Not least my 69 Sprite is fitted with the later pedal box including the
later pedal I call the 'hammer head' - possibly both only used on the 1500
Midget.
Finally, I'll be on the look out for a better brake switch.
Regards
Daniel
In a message dated 02/05/2015 14:48:12 GMT Daylight Time,
72spridget@gmail.com writes:
Current switch is probably marginal, since firm pedal means no air
anywhere in the hydraulics. OTOH, it is possible that it is simply not passing
enough current to drive the brake lights. A small relay might take care of the
problem, at least for a while.
Box doesn't need completely removed to install the mechanical switch; no
need to mess with the hydraulic connections and the top two bolts only need
loosening. I am sure that you are aware of the need to leave a few mm of
travel in the pedal when setting the depth of the switch? Covered in the
Haynes manual page 167. Bit of a nuisance having to undo the bolts to adjust
it
later...
I would use the later union and save another 3 grams of weight ;-)
Use an NOS switch rather than the current replacements unless you are fond
of replacing them.
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<DIV>Well I fitted the new switch today. I did manage to twist the=
2 wires=20
off it but then made a better job of soldering wires onto the terminals th=
an=20
whoever made the switch did. I also fitted male spade end connectors=
so I=20
could use the existing wiring from the hydraulic switch. For now I'v=
e also=20
left the hydraulic switch and 4-way union in place - removal will be a fut=
ure=20
job l will do later.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I don't understand the whole 3mm free play thing. The switch go=
es=20
from being off to being on in about 3mm. The switch has to be fully=
wound=20
into the pedal box so that with the brake pedal fully up it is fully press=
ing=20
the switch contact in. Once the brake pedal is pressed down the swit=
ch=20
contact is released and the brake lights come on. I guess that press=
ing=20
the brake pedal puts the brake lights on before the brakes are on, maybe=
not=20
such a bad thing. I do have some future brake hydraulic stuff planne=
d so=20
will leave things as they are for now.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I plan on fitting a couple of small zip ties to the switch to hold it=
=20
together since it only has flimsy crimping doing so at present.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>At some point I'll get the inner wing modified so I can replace the=
switch=20
without unbolting the pedal box (also need to fit captive nuts to the insi=
de of=20
the car where the existing ones rusted/stripped out forcing the use of a=
nut and=20
an assistant to hold a spanner on it. I do have ARP stainless bolts=
=20
retaining the pedal box now so won't have the same issue in the future (I=
guess=20
BMC didn't use copper grease on the factory install).</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Not least my 69 Sprite is fitted with the later pedal box including=
the=20
later pedal I call the 'hammer head' - possibly both only used on the 1500=
=20
Midget.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Finally, I'll be on the look out for a better brake switch.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Regards</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Daniel</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 02/05/2015 14:48:12 GMT Daylight Time,=20
72spridget@gmail.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"=
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style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3D=
Arial>Current=20
switch is probably marginal, since firm pedal means no air anywhere in=
the=20
hydraulics. OTOH, it is possible that it is simply not passing enough cu=
rrent=20
to drive the brake lights. A small relay might take care of the problem,=
at=20
least for a while.=20
<DIV>Box doesn't need completely removed to install the mechanical switc=
h; no=20
need to mess with the hydraulic connections and the top two bolts only=
need=20
loosening. I am sure that you are aware of the need to leave a few mm of=
=20
travel in the pedal when setting the depth of the switch? Covered in the=
=20
Haynes manual page 167. Bit of a nuisance having to undo the bolts to ad=
just=20
it later...</DIV>
<DIV>I would use the later union and save another 3 grams of weight ;-)<=
/DIV>
<DIV>Use an NOS switch rather than the current replacements unless you=
are=20
fond of replacing them.</DIV></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></H=
TML>
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