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If it were me I'd go with option 4. Option 5 will work but is more work
and carries a weight penalty compared to Option 4.
In a message dated 30/07/2015 21:25:01 GMT Daylight Time,
spridgets@autox.team.net writes:
Hi List:
I have a bugeye that I converted to disc brakes years ago. I never
changed out the Master cylinder, and it worked okay, but always had a
hard brake pedal. I now need to replace or rebuild the Master Cylinder
due to an issue with the clutch side. I have looked at a couple of
options:
1. rebuild the current MC (some pitting in the bore that has not honed
out) (Cost $12.85 + shipping)
2. buy a new 7/8" bore MC and have it back the way it was (currently on
sale) Cost $98.95 TRW or $197.95 AP + shipping.
3. Buy a new 3/4" MC from Moss (TRW brand, currently on sale) and
shorten the push rods (approx. 36% easier pedal) Cost $229.95 + shipping
4. Send the 7/8" bore MC to Gerard for a rebuild to 3/4" and shorten or
buy shorter push rods. Cost $325 + shipping both ways
5. Buy a new 7/8" bore MC and add the brake Servo booster Moss sells to
give more power without having to modify the pushrods (this option is
supposed to give about a 2:1 boost to the brakes) Cost $98.95 for the MC
+ $199.95 for the Servo booster+ shipping and a few pieces of brake line
to plumb in the servo.
Has anyone on the list done this last option? If so, how did it turn out?
Any experience with the TRW MC vs. the AP?
Suggestions on the best option? I'm trying to balance cost vs. the best
outcome.
Thanks
John O'Brien
'61 Bugeye
'65 BJ8
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<DIV>If it were me I'd go with option 4. Option 5 will work but is=
more=20
work and carries a weight penalty compared to Option 4.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 30/07/2015 21:25:01 GMT Daylight Time,=20
spridgets@autox.team.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"=
><FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3D=
Arial>Hi=20
List:<BR>I have a bugeye that I converted to disc brakes years ago. =
; I=20
never <BR>changed out the Master cylinder, and it worked okay, but alway=
s had=20
a <BR>hard brake pedal. I now need to replace or rebuild the Maste=
r=20
Cylinder <BR>due to an issue with the clutch side. I have looked=
at a=20
couple of options:<BR> 1. rebuild the current MC (some pitting in=
the=20
bore that has not honed <BR>out) (Cost $12.85 + shipping)<BR>2. bu=
y a=20
new 7/8" bore MC and have it back the way it was (currently on <BR>sale)=
Cost=20
$98.95 TRW or $197.95 AP + shipping.<BR>3. Buy a new 3/4" MC from Moss=
(TRW=20
brand, currently on sale) and <BR>shorten the push rods (approx.=
36%=20
easier pedal) Cost $229.95 + shipping<BR>4. Send the 7/8" bore MC to Ger=
ard=20
for a rebuild to 3/4" and shorten or <BR>buy shorter push rods. Cost $32=
5 +=20
shipping both ways<BR>5. Buy a new 7/8" bore MC and add the brake Servo=
=20
booster Moss sells to <BR>give more power without having to modify the&n=
bsp;=20
pushrods (this option is <BR>supposed to give about a 2:1 boost to the=
brakes)=20
Cost $98.95 for the MC <BR>+ $199.95 for the Servo booster+ shipping and=
a few=20
pieces of brake line <BR>to plumb in the servo.<BR><BR>Has anyone on the=
list=20
done this last option? If so, how did it turn out?<BR><BR>Any expe=
rience=20
with the TRW MC vs. the AP?<BR><BR>Suggestions on the best option? =
I'm=20
trying to balance cost vs. the best <BR>outcome.<BR><BR>Thanks<BR>John=
=20
O'Brien<BR>'61 Bugeye<BR>'65=20
BJ8<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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spridgets@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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