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Re: [Spridgets] Kill Switches

To: mdrowe <mdrowe@optonline.net>, Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Kill Switches
From: Ron Soave via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Sat, 14 May 2016 10:32:18 -0500
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <em5b9d3fee-25f6-4d40-9445-0f40b620277b@windows-5d5q88t>
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Hi Mike,
Yes, disconnect the positive. The Pegasus switch - yes as well. I run an alt=
ernator and was shocked (pun intended) to hit my kill switch with ignition r=
unning and find car still ran. Proper kill switch fixed it wiring was clear i=
n instructions.=20

Good luck,

Ron Soave

> On May 14, 2016, at 9:09 AM, mdrowe via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.ne=
t> wrote:
>=20
> I have been doing a lot of reading on kill switches.  My mechanic/tutor (w=
ho is never, ever, ever, wrong) insists that they should be on the ground wi=
re, which is how they are done on race cars.  This may be OK if there is no a=
lternator, but will not kill a running engine with alternator.  It just runs=
 on, finding a ground for the alternator output somewhere else.  More import=
ant, disconnecting the battery ground on a running engine can cause a voltag=
e spike that apparently can fry the alternator.  A properly-wired kill switc=
h is on the positive terminal and has a 3 ohm/11 watt resistor to ground to p=
revent this.  Pegasus Racing has detailed instructions.  I may already have d=
amaged mine before I learned the proper way to wire it.  Time will tell.
> =20
> This brings up another question:  People put the green-knob battery switch=
 on the negative terminal.  This not only has the same run-on, fried alterna=
tor problem, but also leaves the entire positive system of the car hot.  Sin=
ce there are grounds all over the car body,  I think that means we can get a=
rching to the body pretty much anywhere.  If the positive terminal is discon=
nected, there is no power anywhere, as nothing will come out of the ground s=
ide, regardless.
> =20
> What say you all?
> =20
> BTW, after two years of struggling to start the new engine put together by=
 my mechanic/tutor (yes, the same one), it developed that the cam was instal=
led 18 degrees advanced.  It started right up when corrected to five degrees=
 advance, as specified.  Of course, after sitting for two years without runn=
ing, every gasket on the engine leaked.  It has been a long two years.
> =20
> Michael Rowe
> The Holy Sprite
> =20
> ------------------------
>=20
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; 
charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Hi Mike,</div><div 
id="AppleMailSignature">Yes, disconnect the positive. The Pegasus switch - yes 
as well. I run an alternator and was shocked (pun intended) to hit my kill 
switch with ignition running and find car still ran. Proper kill switch fixed 
it wiring was clear in instructions.&nbsp;</div><div 
id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Good 
luck,<br><br>Ron Soave</div><div><br>On May 14, 2016, at 9:09 AM, mdrowe via 
Spridgets &lt;<a 
href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";>spridgets@autox.team.net</a>&gt; 
wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<div>I have been doing a lot of reading on kill switches.&nbsp; My 
mechanic/tutor (who is never, ever, ever,&nbsp;wrong) insists that they should 
be on the ground wire, which is how they are done on race cars.&nbsp; This may 
be OK if there is no alternator, but will not kill a running engine with 
alternator.&nbsp; It just runs on, finding a ground for the alternator output 
somewhere else.&nbsp; More important,&nbsp;disconnecting the battery ground on 
a running engine can cause a voltage spike that apparently&nbsp;can&nbsp;fry 
the alternator.&nbsp; A properly-wired kill switch is on the positive terminal 
and&nbsp;has a 3 ohm/11 watt resistor to ground&nbsp;to prevent this.&nbsp; 
Pegasus Racing has detailed instructions.&nbsp; I may already have damaged mine 
before I learned the proper way to wire it.&nbsp; Time will tell.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>This brings up another question:&nbsp; People put the green-knob battery 
switch on the negative terminal.&nbsp; This not only has the same run-on, fried 
alternator problem, but also leaves the entire positive system of the car 
hot.&nbsp; Since there are grounds all over the car body,&nbsp; I think that 
means we can get arching to the body pretty much anywhere.&nbsp; If the 
positive terminal is disconnected, there is no power anywhere, as nothing will 
come out of the ground side, regardless.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>What say you all?</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>BTW,&nbsp;after two years of struggling to start the new engine put 
together by my mechanic/tutor (yes, the same one), it developed that the cam 
was installed 18 degrees advanced.&nbsp; It started right up when corrected to 
five degrees advance, as specified.&nbsp; Of course, after sitting for two 
years without running, every gasket on the engine leaked.&nbsp; It has been a 
long two years.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Michael Rowe</div>
<div>The Holy Sprite</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote 
type="cite"><div><span>------------------------</span><br><span></span><br><span><a
 
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