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Re: [Spridgets] Not Spridget, but Relevant

To: Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Not Spridget, but Relevant
From: crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2020 17:42:07 -0500
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <8kaa97pgj2so1bqo03dr47m0.1579212779440.ref@email.lge.com> (Java/1.8.0_181)
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The wire from the brake switch should be a dedicated wire only running from the 
warning light to the plug (switch) at the alleged "proportioning valve" looking 
thingy.  The brake "warning " light has power all the time and the "switch 
(at the valve assembly)" is the lights ground.  If you have created an 
accidental ground somewhere between the brake warning light , the light will 
illuminate even if it is not grounding at the brake valve assembly.  Ok?  
Now your horn is somehow grounding your brake warning light ground circut.  So 
the wires from the stalk go to a multi pin molded plug both on the switch wires 
and in the dash harness.Lucas horns are hot all the time and they activate by 
the stalk completing  the ground circut to make the horn " beep".  The horns 
should be beeping away if you are grounding the brake test light through the 
horn ground circut.  Right now if my guess is right the horn fuse is either 
dirty and not making contact or the fuse is blown.  Oh goodness why do I know 
ANY of this stuff....?Just for fun, I completely unwrapped the whole wire 
harness for the Midget.  I removed all the brake warning light, heater blower, 
reverse light, door light , trunk light and interior light  4 way emergency , 
radio , wiper , all 4 side marker and seat belt warning stuff.   I wanted a 
dedicated headlight , brake light , park light , turn signal and horn 
harness.   I added the ignition and did use the fuel pump circut to the cars 
rear.  I wanted a lightest harness and still have enough functioning features 
to drive the car on a city street and brake lights required for racing 
applications. It took 4 turn signal & 1 wiper ( windshield washer switch 
became my horn contact) switch to make a switch with high & low beams , turn 
signal , headlight "dip" and horn in 1 switch that plugged into the Midget 
harness I had.ChuckCut , solder & heat shrink tubing away!!!!Sent from my LG 
Mobile------ Original message------From: Michael MacLean via SpridgetsDate: 
Thu, Jan 16, 2020 2:17 PMTo: Spridgets via Spridgets;Cc: Subject:[Spridgets] 
Not Spridget, but RelevantIn an earlier post to another list (MGs) I told how 
my tach in my 69 GT would 
die when the headlights were turned on.  This is for you guys with later 
electrical tachs or MGs.  Someone mentioned that the tach
 was looking for a ground through the light wiring for the instrument.  
That turned out to be true, somewhat.  To test this I pulled the 
instrument to inspect the wiring and found what you see in the picture. 
 One arrow points to the ground connection on the back of the case and 
the other arrow points to a common ground just floating around behind 
the instrument.  For an experiment I slipped the ground wire connector 
over the threaded mouting stud of the case back and shoved the tach back
 into place temporarily to find out about the missing ground theory.  It
 worked!  You didn't think it was going to be that easy did you?  The 
light had not illuminated the instrument before either, so after 
scraping and sanding the bulb hlder and the tube fitting on the back of 
the tach that the bulb shoves into, the light worked too, but wait 
there's more!  After this hollow victory I had to use the horn on the 
test drive.  Now the horn does not work, but when I push on the steering
 wheel stalk to activate the horn, the brake warning light comes on.  I 
just love electrical problems.  Not in my element here.  Any ideas?Mike 
MacLean
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    <div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div dir="auto"><span style="font-size: 
10pt;">The wire from the brake switch should be a dedicated wire only running 
from the warning light to the plug (switch) at the alleged "proportioning 
valve" looking thingy.&nbsp;&nbsp;</span></div><div dir="auto">The brake 
"warning " light has power all the time and the "switch (at the valve 
assembly)" is the lights ground.&nbsp; If you have created an accidental ground 
somewhere between the brake warning light , the light will illuminate even if 
it is not grounding at the brake valve assembly.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div 
dir="auto">Ok?&nbsp; Now your horn is somehow grounding your brake warning 
light ground circut.&nbsp; So the wires from the stalk go to a multi pin molded 
plug both on the switch wires and in the dash harness.</div><div 
dir="auto">Lucas horns are hot all the time and they activate by the stalk 
completing&nbsp; the ground circut to make the horn " beep".&nbsp; The horns 
should be beeping away if you are grounding the brake test light through the 
horn ground circut.&nbsp; Right now if my guess is right the horn fuse is 
either dirty and not making contact or the fuse is blown.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div 
dir="auto">Oh goodness why do I know ANY of this stuff....?</div><div 
dir="auto">Just for fun, I completely unwrapped the whole wire harness for the 
Midget.&nbsp; I removed all the brake warning light, heater blower, reverse 
light, door light , trunk light and interior light&nbsp; 4 way emergency , 
radio , wiper , all 4 side marker and seat belt warning stuff.&nbsp; &nbsp;I 
wanted a dedicated headlight , brake light , park light , turn signal and horn 
harness.&nbsp; &nbsp;I added the ignition and did use the fuel pump circut to 
the cars rear.&nbsp; I wanted a lightest harness and still have enough 
functioning features to drive the car on a city street and brake lights 
required for racing applications.&nbsp;</div><div dir="auto">It took 4 turn 
signal &amp; 1 wiper ( windshield washer switch became my horn contact) switch 
to make a switch with high &amp; low beams , turn signal , headlight "dip" and 
horn in 1 switch that plugged into the Midget harness I had.</div><div 
dir="auto">Chuck</div><div dir="auto">Cut , solder &amp; heat shrink tubing 
away!!!!</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><div dir="auto" 
style="font-size:9pt;"><i>Sent from my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div><div 
style="font-size: 10pt;"><div id="LGEmailHeader" dir="auto"><div 
dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">------ Original message------</div><div 
dir="auto"><b>From: </b>Michael MacLean via 
Spridgets<spridgets@autox.team.net></spridgets@autox.team.net></div><div 
dir="auto"><b>Date: </b>Thu, Jan 16, 2020 2:17 PM</div><div dir="auto"><b>To: 
</b>Spridgets via Spridgets;</div><div dir="auto"><b>Cc: </b></div><div 
dir="auto"><b>Subject:</b>[Spridgets] Not Spridget, but Relevant</div><div 
dir="auto"><br></div></div><div dir="auto"><div class="yahoo-style-wrap" 
style="font-family:times new roman, new york, times, 
serif;font-size:16px;"><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false"><div><div 
dir="ltr">In an earlier post to another list (MGs) I told how my tach in my 69 
GT would 
die when the headlights were turned on.&nbsp; This is for you guys with later 
electrical tachs or MGs.&nbsp; Someone mentioned that the tach
 was looking for a ground through the light wiring for the instrument.&nbsp; 
That turned out to be true, somewhat.&nbsp; To test this I pulled the 
instrument to inspect the wiring and found what you see in the picture.&nbsp;
 One arrow points to the ground connection on the back of the case and 
the other arrow points to a common ground just floating around behind 
the instrument.&nbsp; For an experiment I slipped the ground wire connector 
over the threaded mouting stud of the case back and shoved the tach back
 into place temporarily to find out about the missing ground theory.&nbsp; It
 worked!&nbsp; You didn't think it was going to be that easy did you?&nbsp; The 
light had not illuminated the instrument before either, so after 
scraping and sanding the bulb hlder and the tube fitting on the back of 
the tach that the bulb shoves into, the light worked too, but wait 
there's more!&nbsp; After this hollow victory I had to use the horn on the 
test drive.&nbsp; Now the horn does not work, but when I push on the steering
 wheel stalk to activate the horn, the brake warning light comes on.&nbsp; I 
just love electrical problems.&nbsp; Not in my element here.&nbsp; Any 
ideas?</div>Mike MacLean</div><div><br></div></div></div></div></div>


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