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Re: [Spridgets] electrical starting point help

To: Ryan Kubanoff via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] electrical starting point help
From: crusaderchuck55--- via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2020 16:25:14 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: spridgets@autox.team.net
References: <oqirsd62cuc5ucug548bb6qo.1600805566567.ref@email.lge.com> mail.backend.jedi.jws.acl:role.jedi.acl.token.atz.jws.hermes.aol Apache-HttpAsyncClient/4.1.4 (Java/11.0.7)
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Horn:First see if it has power to the horn at the horn.Spridgets ground the 
horn to make it "beep" through a ground in the steering rack to rack mounts.  
Factory shimmed the rack with what looks like thin card stock or gasket 
material.  Frequently the horn circut looses its ground at the rack mounts.  
 Simple try this thing.   Alligator clamp test lead from a rack mount ( to 
frame!) Bolt to the pinch bolt that connects the steering shaft to the rack's 
pinion.  That should create an artificial ground of the rack mounts are at 
fault.  Another test is if you have power at the horn , use your jumper to 
ground the other terminal at the horn.   If power is present and you ground 
the other terminal and nothing happens , it's the horn.If the horn makes some 
sounds unlike a horn , try adjusting the horn , it could be dirty contacts in 
the horn.   Ya might get lucky.Those tests will narrow it down to power to 
horn or the grounding between the horn and the rack.Dash lights?   The tiny 
almost hidden invisible slide switch under the edge of the dash is the "yes-no" 
dash light switch.  Dash lights are all a red wire with a white tracer .  
 The obvious question is , have you cleaned the fuse holder and ends of the 2 
fuses and are the fuses viable?   Do NOT trust a fuse that "looks good"!  
 The ribbon inside can come loose from the metal end cap!   Do not 
ask!!!!!  Check your "good" fuses with a volt-ohm meter simply for 
continuity.  Let us know where you find any interesting 
gremlins!  ChuckBeen there...broke that....fixed it...broke it again 
and.....fixed it AGAIN!Sent from my LG Mobile------ Original message------From: 
Ryan Kubanoff via SpridgetsDate: Tue, Sep 22, 2020 3:31 PMTo: spridgets;Cc: 
Subject:[Spridgets] electrical starting point help
  
   ok looking for a place to start when trying to sort this out.
   
  
  
   1960 bugeye, i have no gauge lights or horn. turn signals work on dash, 
gauges work, car runs without a problem. Any tips for a starting point?
  
  
   Ryan
   
 
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    <div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div dir="auto">Horn:</div><div 
dir="auto">First see if it has power to the horn at the horn.</div><div 
dir="auto">Spridgets ground the horn to make it "beep" through a ground in the 
steering rack to rack mounts.&nbsp; Factory shimmed the rack with what looks 
like thin card stock or gasket material.&nbsp; Frequently the horn circut 
looses its ground at the rack mounts.&nbsp; &nbsp;Simple try this thing.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;Alligator clamp test lead from a rack mount ( to frame!) Bolt to the 
pinch bolt that connects the steering shaft to the rack's pinion.&nbsp; That 
should create an artificial ground of the rack mounts are at fault.&nbsp; 
Another test is if you have power at the horn , use your jumper to ground the 
other terminal at the horn.&nbsp; &nbsp;If power is present and you ground the 
other terminal and nothing happens , it's the horn.</div><div dir="auto">If the 
horn makes some sounds unlike a horn , try adjusting the horn , it could be 
dirty contacts in the horn.&nbsp; &nbsp;Ya might get lucky.</div><div 
dir="auto">Those tests will narrow it down to power to horn or the grounding 
between the horn and the rack.</div><div dir="auto">Dash lights?&nbsp; 
&nbsp;The tiny almost hidden invisible slide switch under the edge of the dash 
is the "yes-no" dash light switch.&nbsp; Dash lights are all a red wire with a 
white tracer .&nbsp; &nbsp;</div><div dir="auto">The obvious question is , have 
you cleaned the fuse holder and ends of the 2 fuses and are the fuses 
viable?&nbsp; &nbsp;Do NOT trust a fuse that "looks good"!&nbsp; &nbsp;The 
ribbon inside can come loose from the metal end cap!&nbsp; &nbsp;Do not 
ask!!!!!&nbsp; Check your "good" fuses with a volt-ohm meter simply for 
continuity.&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div dir="auto">Let us know where you find any 
interesting gremlins!&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div dir="auto">Chuck</div><div 
dir="auto">Been there...broke that....fixed it...broke it again and.....fixed 
it AGAIN!</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div 
dir="auto"><br></div><div><div dir="auto" style="font-size:9pt;"><i>Sent from 
my LG Mobile</i></div></div></div><div style="font-size: 10pt;"><div 
id="LGEmailHeader" dir="auto"><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">------ 
Original message------</div><div dir="auto"><b>From: </b>Ryan Kubanoff via 
Spridgets<spridgets@autox.team.net></spridgets@autox.team.net></div><div 
dir="auto"><b>Date: </b>Tue, Sep 22, 2020 3:31 PM</div><div dir="auto"><b>To: 
</b>spridgets;</div><div dir="auto"><b>Cc: </b></div><div 
dir="auto"><b>Subject:</b>[Spridgets] electrical starting point help</div><div 
dir="auto"><br></div></div><div dir="auto">
  <div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: 
#333333;" class="default-style">
   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">ok looking for a 
place to start when trying to sort this out.</span>
   <br>
  </div>
  <div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: 
#333333;" class="default-style">
   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">1960 bugeye, i have 
no gauge lights or horn. turn signals work on dash, gauges work, car runs 
without a problem. Any tips for a starting point?</span>
  </div>
  <div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: 
#333333;" class="default-style">
   <span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Ryan</span>
  </div> 
 </div></div>


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