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Re: Temperature Question 2

To: Gregory_Schulz@mil-elect-tool.com
Subject: Re: Temperature Question 2
From: Bill Dalton <billd13@essex1.com>
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 19:34:29 -0500
Gregory_Schulz@mil-elect-tool.com wrote:
> 
> Being a bug-eye (vintage racer) owner for only a few short months, the topic 
>of
> the
> heater valve on the rear of the engine still mystifies me.
> 
> I currently have a special adapter fitted to the head at that position with 
>the
> temp
> sender for my VDO gauge installed there. I've heard stories about #4 getting
> hot,
> and other stories about steam pockets forming if that valve is closed or 
>blanked
> off. I decided to put my temp sender there to see if I could pick up any
> indication.
> 
> With a 160 thermostat installed, and racing in mid-70 degree weather on 5/22, 
>my
> temp gauge read 180-200 on the false grid (no fan!) but once I was out on the
> track
> at speed it went right down to 165-170 and stayed there. This indicated to me
> that
> the rear section of my engine (water jacket around the #4 vacinity) was rather
> cool -
> maybe too cool according to some paddock observers.
> 
> I had previously checked the calibration of my gauge prior to installation to
> make
> sure it was reading correctly. So I'm either very lucky not to have a
> temperature
> problem in that area with my current set-up, or the problem is there but I
> cannot
> pick it up in that uppermost rear position for some reason.
> 
> Any thoughts appreciated, and TIA...
> 
> Greg Schulz
> '58 Bug-eye (Vintage racer & street "legal")
> 
> shawn tobin <suhs2@hotmail.com> on 06/03/99 11:30:43 AM
> 
> Please respond to shawn tobin <suhs2@hotmail.com>
> 
> To:   mdietsche@yahoo.com, john.gronberg@us.landisstaefa.com
> cc:   spridgets@autox.team.net (bcc: Gregory Schulz/MED/IT/ATLAS COPCO)
> 
> Subject:  Re: Temperature Question 2
> 
> Perhaps this is a good time to remind us that the heater valve on the rear
> of the head MUST be kept open and flowing either through the heater or
> directly into the heater return hose.  Elsewise #4 will likely run too hot.
Greg,
A couple of thoughts for you to ponder. On my Mustangs I have found that
electric gages do not seem to be accurate. I use a volt meter and
mechanical oil pressure gage in the Boss 302, 87GT and Cleveland powered
78 F150. The truck also uses a mechanical water temp gage. The Boss uses
its original in dash temp gage which has been verified. However the GT
still uses it in dash temperaure gage which will move all over the
place. I just haven't had time to install the mechanical water temp gage
in it yet. I would strongly suggest using direct mechanical gages to get
accurate readings.

The other thought is that 160 for a thermostat seems low. I know people
claim that a late model GT produces a few more HP when running a 160
thermostat vs a 180 due to "colder air being denser therefore the
computer will add more fuel". However as a mechanical engineer the laws
of thermodynamics say that the larger the difference between operating
temperature and ambient and exhaust temperatures, the more potential
energy there is available to be converted into work. I run 190
thermostats in everything. That way I only have to stock a thermostat
for a Cleveland and a 2nd one for the Boss and GT. The Boss will run
right on the thermostat no matter how hard I push it in touring in
ambients above 90. It will come up a couple of needle widths sitting in
the pits or grid- this is with a fan. The truck is black and I have
never seen it go above 195 on a 95 degree day even loaded with almost
2000 lbs.
Bill

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