Pull the plugs out, spray some WD-40 (or similar lightweight solvent).
And wait a day. The squirt some 30 weight oil in each hole. Not too
much though. Try to spray it on the cylinder walls if you can. Wait
another day. Now take a old big towel and place it over all of the
holes, so that if it does turn, you won't wash down the engine
compartment with oil blowing out of these holes. Put the car in fourth
gear, and rock it back and fourth. Have a friend help, so you can watch
the crank pulley to see it even budges in either direction.
If that doesn't break it loose do the following. Get in the car, make
sure it is still in fourth gear, push in the clutch (I assume it still
functions on this car), and have your friend push you down the street.
Get up a little speed, no too much, and drop the clutch (slipping foot
to the side so the clutch snaps shut). If the wheels lock (skid), then
try going backwards, but slower. If that doesn't work, go forwards
again but faster, and have your friend jump just before you drop the
clutch.
This has worked on every car that I have bought that the engine was
stuck tight, except one. And that was a 65 Sunbeam IMP. Its piston and
cylinder were so corroded that I had to shatter the pistons with a
sledge hammer (Engine out of car), to get it apart. All of the rest
have come free doing the above procedure. It doesn't mean that they
would run.....It just means they were no longer seized.
Rich
>----------
>From: haltman@VNET.IBM.COM[SMTP:haltman@VNET.IBM.COM]
>Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 1996 7:47 AM
>To: alpines@autox.team.net
>Subject: SI restoration
>
>I have started on the restoration of my Seris I that some of you may recall
>that the guy I got the car from said it was running 2 years ago when he
>parked it. Question: Should I be able to turn the engine by hand? If not,
>how can I tell if I will need to do a rebuild? Any thoughts/suggestions
>are welcomed!
>Howard Altman
>Series I Alpine B9003995
>
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