At 09:08 pm 2/5/97 PST, you wrote:
..... This modification does allow almost
>>correct Ackerman.
>
>WOW, sounds exotic... and I can't quite picture it but would like more
>info... are you talking about eliminating the ball joint at the end of
>the rack?
>
>> The "almost" conserns the fact that The steering arms
>>are too short. Can't make them any longer or they hit the inside of
>> the wheel.
>
>Well, you just need bigger wheels! ...
>IF you could move the steering arm outboard at a 45degree angle!!).
>> The real solution is to move the motor back several inches, and
>>remount the rack directly in line with the steering arms. Just
>>because the
>>firewall is in the way .......etc.
>
>
>
>Man, this is getting me exicited to work on that project
>again... now see what you done..
>
>Gary
>
Gary,
My modification is a little bigger than indicated. On what started
life as an Alpine, I have added 77 Lincoln spindles, disk brakes,front
and rear, including a shortened 9" Lincoln rear 4.11 with Ford
Traction Lock, 4 bar linkage and coil springs. New rear frames
and wheel tubs are added. Under the hood I added new frames
and moved the inner fender wells out 4" on each side. The fire wall
was also moved back. I now have room for a 460 Ford, but I found that
a 500 Caddy was still 2 inches too long. I am a Ford man anyway.
Big Ford ball joints are grafted to my original A arms. The Upper
A arm is raised a few inches at the mounting points to make the
geometery correct. I welded steel blocks to the spindles and bolted
Alpine steering arms to the blocks.The Alpine arms are a little longer
than the Tiger Arms. I have the arms as far forward as possible for
15" wheels. I am using a MGB rack and yes; the ball joints at the ends
of the rack were removed. I welded a steel rod extension to the
previous threaded portion of the rack ball hoint holder. The rod is
about 1 3/8 " in diameter and 5 1/2 " long. To this rod I welded a
portion of an MGB steering arm about 6 1/2" long. The arm is at an
angle that puts the tapered hole for the tie rod end about in line with
where the original rack ball joint was except that is 3 or 4 inches back
behind the rack. The long 1 3/8" rod allows me to put rubber
bellows on the rack to keep the oil in. I am using Alpine/Tiger tie rod
ends at both ends with a long grade 8 stud for the connection between
the tie rod ends. ( it is hard to thread a grade 8 but it can be done).
Both left and right hand threads to allow easy adjustment.
By the way,did you know that Alpine tie rod ends are identical to the Tiger's
except for the threads. Just drill the existing Alpine threaded hole
to the size needed for the Tiger threads and and retap it. You can use the
left handed threaded Alpine parts or the right hand threads, it makes no
difference after you retap for the Tiger right hand threads.
I got a bargin from J.C. Whitney when they had a close out on
Alpine/ Tiger parts several years ago. Got 15 tie rod ends at about
$2.50 each. Mostly used them up now on my Tiger and two
Alpines. Have a 2.8 L Mercury Bobcat (Caprii) V6 with C3 auto
and a Jeep rear end in one Alpine. Motor fits with no sheet metal
mods under the hood. Used a Tiger radiator to keep it cool.
I made a set of headers to clear the original Alpine steering.
Transmission tunnel was modified to fit the auto transmission.
Runs about like a regular Mustang V-8. The other Alpine is hacked
as described above.
I have no room to put a rack in for rear steering because I have a
351C with a full length oil pan. I find it hard to believe that even with
the original motor in the Tiger one could add a rear rack. If it is
below the steering arms then the same problems occure as having the
rack in front of the arms as the unmodified Tiger has.
I have a very long way to go to to finish my Alpine 460 project.
At least I am not hacking my Tiger any more.
At the same time I am restoring a 76 Reynard Formula Ford,
so I keep busy.
Jim Barrett Tiger II and others.
|