After all of these changes that you have listed, are you sure that this
car is still a Sunbeam Tiger? It sounds more like a Barrett Tiger
replica Ser. # 0000001 8-)
Rich
>----------
>From: Anita & Jim Barrett[SMTP:anitabrt@mindspring.com]
>Sent: Monday, February 24, 1997 5:01 PM
>To: tigers@autox.team.net
>Subject: 351C Tiger II
>
>At 04:30 am 2/24/97 -0700, you wrote:
>>Hi Folks,
>> Typically, I am voyeuristic when it come to the Tiger and Alpine
>>list, choosing to read and not speak. Every once in awhile I find something
>>so intriguing I have to inquire. In your case you signed a response with
>>"351C Tiger II and others." Does this mean you slipped a 351C into a Tiger
>>II? How did you do it?
>> The reason I ask is because a built a 351C about 5 years ago,
>>putting about $3500 into parts and machining. It was originally for a Cobra
>>kit project. Then the bottom really fell out of the defense industry, lay
>>offs, money short, etc. ad naseum...... So the engine sits on the garage
>>floor. Two years ago I bought a '67 Series V Alpine which is currently
>>stripped down to parade rest and waiting for warmer weather to drag to the
>>paint and body spa. Although my intention is to put the four-slug back in
>>after the car returns, I quite often look at the Cleveland and the engine
>>hole and wonder what kind of cutting and welding I'd have to do.
>>Apparently, you've been down this road and I'd be both interested and
>>appreciative to hear how you did it. Thanks.
>>
>>Mike Veesart
>>
>Mike,
> A few more words on a 351C Tiger. The old firewall was replaced with
>a 1/16 inch plate ( overkill but that is what I had handy). I used the old
>cut out firewall as a templet for the various needed holes. The brackets
>around the holes were transfered to the new firewall. Had to bend some
> sheet metal up inside the dash/old firewall mounts to fit the peddles. A
> cold chisel and a big hammer removed the firewall and frames.
> Recommend an air chisel as my arm got very sore. The 351C flywheel
>was too big to fit the aluminum 289 Tiger bell housing so I used a Bronco
> steel housing that fits, but is veryheavy ( and safer). I used a Bronco
>oil pan
> and cut the bottom off for ground clearance. Added a home made oil shield
> in the pan to keep the oil off the crank. Pan now holds 7 quarts including
>the
> filter and cooler.( original 2 tube Tiger II oil cooler). Transmission was
>not
>moved at all. Direct bolt up to the Cleveland. Fabricated motor mounts out
> of 1/4" plates. Use Original old style motor mounts. Recommend going to
> a later style motor mount that is stronger. Fabricated headers out of a
>modified
>Torino 351C 4 barrel set. Use 1 5/8" tubes and the 4 pipes are parallel
>to the ground with a flattened cone 7" long that goes to the collector.
>Use 2 1/2" exhaust and tail pipes ( 2" EMT, last forever). Use Royal Scott
>mufflers that sound good but could be more free flowing. They also last
>forever. The pipes go under the rear axle and they are almors streight.
>Just a slight dip in front of the mufflers. Also reworked the frame where
>the
>pipes go through. Enlarged the holes and added 3" tubing to re-enforce the
>hole.
> My only clearance problem is the front left spark plug. The
>steering
>column is sort of in the way. I can get it, but it remines me of the
>original 289
>plug access.
> I also fabricated an alternator bracket from scratch to fit. Had to
>relocate the X hydralic brake fitting a few inches from the original
>location in the right front fender to clear the alternator.
> I also added 1" square by 1/8" thick tubes from the firewall ( close
>to
> the sides) to the cross member. Also a similar tube vertical, to go from
>the cross member mounting bracket to the tube from the firewall.
> Added 1/8" steel plates to trianglelate the tube/cross member and
> added a 1/4" plate with attached threaded tubes ( from the old frame cross
> member "bolt holes") to match the original cross member mounting holes.
>The new frames are 2"x3" x 1/8". They are streight from the under car
> frame work to the cross member. No big hump like the original
>Tiger frames had. ( this hump was to clear the Alpine steering). At the
>cross
>member I cut the bottom of the new frame, boxed it in and fitted it to the
>shape of the cross member. The frames extend past the cross member to
>the location of the radiator. at this point I switched to 1" square tubes to
>mount the bumper. I do not lift the car with the original plug in stick
>that was a poor screw jack. I use a small floor jack under the cross member
>, frame , rear end or trailer hitch. Yes, I added a trailer hitch from
>scratch.
>Pull a 16" Baha sky boat. The radiator end caps had new outlets added
>in the opposite corners from the original 289 radiator. New core 4" wider
>solved all my cooling problems. The original outlets on the radiator are
>capped
>with some rubber caps that are normally used to seal pipes when plumers are
>pressure testing their new systems. Lasted for 6 years now with no problems.
>Probably should get new ones. The connection from the lower drivers side of
>the radiator is very close to the steering column. I used two 1 3/4" copper
>elbows, a short streight copper pipe and two short sections of radiator
>hose to bypass the steering. The elbows are at about about at right angles
>to each other. Silver solder was used to connect the copper. I found a
>hose that
>fits the top exactly after cutting off a few inches.
> All steel parts of this conversion were welded and I find ther TIGER
>very rigid. However; I now need new bushings in my A arms as they
>are about worn worn out. Thirty years and 260k miles, they just don't
>make things that last any more. The front springs are cut down Pinto
>springs. Cheap and stiffer than the original Tiger. Had previously
>modified the upper A arm mount for autocross; but it wore the tires
>and was not good for wide tires. Now back to original settings. I use
>Crysler Imperial Monrow shocks ( older model). Fit fine and work.
>I have Konies available, but during the mods for autocross, I had moved the
>upper A arm mount out about an inch and the good shocks will not
>fit. Have a 1 1/8" sway bar up front. Orginally had it mounted in the
>normal
>brackets with thin rubber; but the slots in the lower A arm kept breaking.
>Now have two welded brackets on the front of the cross member that
>mount large sway bar clamps with a good 1/2" rubber around the bar.
>the very end of the sway bar still uses the original Tiger mounting
>bracket. Use a piece of radiator hose as the bushings. The mounting
>brackets are made from old disk brake pads steel backing. ( use what
>you got!) Widened the original radiator fan shroud with sheet metal and
>new 1"x1/8" mounting brackets. Have original wheels with bands inserted
>6 1/2" wheels up front and 8 1/2" om the rear. 235-50-13 Goodyear TAs
>on the rear. Front tire selection varies as they wear out much quicker.
>Rolled the rear inner lip and pushed the finder well out with a jack and 2x4.
>The Tiger II has nice SS wheel trim so any flaws are covered up.
>Streached the front finders a bit also. Of course I long ago cut the
>very front of the front wheel well to clear wide tires on a turn. A gloss
>black Imiron paint job, redone seats and new carpets finished it off.
>Paint is now getting old as I park outside in Florida and the Tiger is
>soaking wet every morning. Can't get in the garage because I have an
> Alpine with shortened 9" rear end, wheel tubs, Lyncon Continal disk
> brakes front and rear as well as the Lyncon spindles. Modified the
>A arms to mount big Ford Ball Joints. Raised the upper A arm mount
>about 4 to 6 inches with necessary reenforcements. Under the hood it
> is opened up enough for a 460 Ford. Alpine project is taking too long.
>Still hung up on the wrong ackerman due to the location of the rack.
>Have not yet solved the problem.
> By the way I reconnend hardened valve seats for 1970 351C 4
> barrel heads. The unleaded gas beats the seat out. I also use Harland
> Sharp roller rockers and a big Crane cam with Crane High Intensity
>high leak down lifters. Still have too much tork.
> Mean while I also have a 76 Reynard Formula Ford (one of 8 made by
>Reynard in England) I am restoring. Need more garage space!
> By the way; if any of you Tiger people have detailed knowledge about
> the mounting of suspension parts on the rear of a FF I can use the help.
> Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others.
>
>
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