At 10:04 PM 6/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello again,
>
>Have I stumped you guys or did my first message end up in the bit-bucket?
>
>I just purchased a MK II and would like some advice from the experts.
>
>First, I would like manufacturers/model #s for an accurate and possibly peak
>storing tach that fits the dash with no modification. Also desirable is
>something that looks similar to the stock unit as this is the only deviation
>I want to make from the otherwise pristine Tiger.
This requirement cannot be met with anything on the market that I
have seen. The diameter of the hole in the dash is larger than most
aftermarket Tach instruments. If you want a similar face appearance, be
prepared to pay for a custom face on your choice of instruments. This is
what I would do.
My engine is the original
>289 but is pretty tweeked (revs very quickly) and I'd rather be on the
>cautious side. I've already broken a stock screw-in rocker stud and
>installed a set of ARPs. I don't want to repeat this experience or, heaven
>forbid, do worse damage! Maybe I'll go back to the stock tach (that I'll
>calibrate to the new one) after I become more familiar with the car.
Buy an electronic rev limiter or an ignition system that has one
built in to it.
>Secondly, some rust advice. One area of the car that was missed during
>restoration (twice) was the driver side floor boards. Several thumb sized
>holes were hiding under the jute moisture-holding sponge material. Surgery
>will cure the major damage, but I'm curious what chemical warfare should be
>launched on the remaining surface rust before painting and what rust
>inhibitor paint would be best (Hammerite?).
I like Phosphoric acid based solutions (Metal Prep or Navel Jelly)
to remove rust. You will have to wear respiratory protection and
neutralize the areas treated along with a through rinse. Since the area
will not be visible, "Extend" will give you a acid based rubber coating.
Over this, an asphaltic coating will give good protection, and roofing
adhesives will bond the heavy impregnated paper. Paul Reisentz
(plrresto@aol.com) has a kit with these pieces available already die cut.
Tom Hall
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