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inquiry 112498a

To: "TransAtlantic Corporation (E-mail)" <tigers@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: inquiry 112498a
From: "Wright, Larry" <lrw@aop.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 07:23:29 -0600
Lawrence R. Wright
Purchasing Analyst
Andrews Office Products Div. of USOP
lrw@aop.com
Ph. 301.386.7923  Fx. 301.386.5333



* From: Kevin Meek wrote:
* Subject: Hard top storage ideas?

I keep forgetting; it gets down into the upper 60's at night in January
in CA, so you need a hardtop. :-)
My system takes up _no_ garage space: leave hardtop in unfinished
basement near door to workshop, where it gets covered in sawdust from
the radial-arm saw over the years. BTW, would the top be less stressed
if you attached two of the bits that normally attach to the windshield
frame to a curved piece of wood sticking out from the wall, and _hang_
the top from that? Put the load on the part of the top designed to
accept the strain, so to speak. Also BTW, the hardtop, which I sold for
$50,  from my old SV Alpine, looked exactly like the one for the Garage
Queen, except in weight, flexibility, and the appearance of the material
where the paint had chipped off, I swear it was fiberglass. Did anyone
make an exact knock-off of the stock top in FG?

Allan Connell wrote:
* I have my hardtop conveniently secluded in the garage above 
* the car.  Simply
* put together a system of block and tackle, a frame from which 
* a length of
* conduit for holding the front and two hooks to hold the back 
* of the hardtop.

Any of these ideas used in a garage with electric openers? Clearance
problem?

Tom Hall wrote:

Thanks for the feedback, Tom (and everyone else who responded!)

* At 08:47 AM 11/23/98 -0600, you wrote:
* >     It's about time for me to start shopping for all of the parts to
* >rebuild the suspension 
*       In order to determine the status of what you already 
* have, the first
* operation is to disassemble the assembly,

The last time, on the Alpine, I found it easiest to have the whole thing
dipped, but that would now mean the plastic A-arm bushing would dissolve
unless I removed them first.  After dipping, the bolts all came loose as
if they had only been finger-tight!

*You will be looking primarily for the initiation of 
* stress cracks
* and the evidence of settling or partial collapse of the 
* crossmember. (SNIP)To restore this dimension to original 
* specification you
* will need a hydraulic jack type system. 

Uh-oh. Betcha this means the engine comes out yet again. :-( At least,
with the crossmember out, 1/2 the work is done.

*       The X-member is likely to show cracking at the shock 
* tower attachment (SNIP)

An all-over, detailed, useful post. Thanks!!!
 
*       Rick at SS now has new upper and lower ball joints, 
* with the design taken
* from the best features of previous manufacturers. 

Hurrah! Didn't know that.

*       If your wedges are corroded you can replace them with 
* shortened Alpine
* units,

And installed correctly; I think mine might be in backwards!

EMarkus822@aol.com wrote:
* Subject: lat  wheels and rubber for sale
* have a set of lat wheels   ....crager ss   with good rubber   for sale
* $ 1000 us    located in toronto canada
* any takers ?

Huh?




Lawrence R. Wright
Purchasing Analyst
Andrews Office Products Div. of USOP
lrw@aop.com
Ph. 301.386.7923  Fx. 301.386.5333


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