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RE: Carb Linkage

To: "'tiger mail'" <tigers@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: RE: Carb Linkage
From: Cecil McLendon <cmclendon@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 00:21:11 -0500
Scott:=20

My throttle cable broke on the road tonight. When I hooked it back up, =
it idled so high I couldn't drive it. You are correct; quite =
embarassing.=20

Now that I have come home and looked in my workshop manual I see that I =
might have had some luck adjsuting the linkage arm from the pedal =
assembly. Oh well!

See my post re: acquiring a throttle cable!

Cecil McLendon

----------
From:   Steve Laifman[SMTP:laifman@flash.net]
Sent:   Wednesday, December 09, 1998 11:51 AM
To:     Scott Lampert
Cc:     tiger mail
Subject:        Re: Carb Linkage



Scott Lampert wrote:

> Does anyone have a good solution for a throttle stop cable bracket.
> I saw a nice billet one in the Jeg's catalog (170-610TSB) but it is
> $79.00, and it's red.
>
> Scott
> B9472628

Scott,

Had to dig through the Jeg's catalog to find your reference.  My, that
is some impressive piece of hardware.  I imagine it is meant to absorb a
lot of forces along the outer sheath of the cable linkage.

On a Tiger, however, there are almost no forces on the outer sheath.  It
is fixed on both ends, and the rod inside does all the work.  When I
went to the 4 barrel Holley, on the high rise F4B, I found the end at a
higher position.  This caused the stock manifold mounted bracket to bend
the outer sheath (and inner 'cable' rod).

To cure this, I simply made a flat bracket about 1 1/2" - 2" long,
drilled two holes in it. One to fit the rear carb stud, the other to fit
the cable threaded connection.  After giving it a 90 degree twist in the
middle, so the carb hole is horizontal, and the cable hole is vertical,
I painted it Ford Racing Black.

Mount the bracket underneath the rear carb stud, and use star lock
washers to prevent it from turning around the stud when tight.  The
cable end is removed from the original bracket and bolted to the new
bracket. This should allow the cable to be a straight line between the
pedal and the throttle.

Two IMPORTANT issues.  If you are using a high rise manifold you MUST
get a longer inner "cable" (wire rod).  The are available from Sunbeam
specialties.  You MUST re-adjust the accelerator pedal angle (clamp
bolt) and pedal stop (screw in/out).  This will prevent the cable from
being under tension when you are floored.

Nothing more embarrassing than to have your cable break on the road, and
have to drive back on as fast an idle speed adjust as you can stand.

Steve


--
Steve Laifman         < One first kiss,       >
B9472289              < one first love, and   >
                      < one first win, is all >
                      < you get in this life. >


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