Lawrence R. Wright
Purchasing Analyst
Andrews Office Products Div. of USOP
larry.wright@usop.com (new)
Ph. 301.386.7923 Fx. 301.386.5333
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steve Laifman [mailto:laifman@flash.net]
> While I recognize the meaning of your dilemma about the lock
> nut jamming, I had no
> problem in removing the original stock shocks, or installing
> the adjustable Koni
> shocks. Maybe the rubber bushings are thinner than original,
> causing the whole
> stack to be lower?
I still have the old shocks; in my case some Monroes that were
on the car when I bought it. I dunno what shocks came from the factory
(tBoN?) so I cannot compared _intended_ stack heights.
Valid question, though. However, the two relatively thin jam
nuts leave no exposed thread at the opt of the shaft, just the
unthreaded bit with "flats" for holding. So, I don't think thicker nuts
are the answer.
> I would not think that using both nylock and locktite is
> necessary. There are,
> however, nuts made with special deformable top threads that
> are used for firm locking.
I could probably find those; I've only seen 'em in bigger sizes,
though.
Here's my tentative solution. In addition to my Eldi
Pedalschussel , I also have a cheap homeowner-grade bicycle pedal
wrench, 9/16"x15mm, not tool-quality steel at all, just stamped. It may
be sacrificed in this project. Clamp it in a vise _directly_ behind the
'slot' that the nut or bolt goes into, and heat it with a torch, and
bend it 90 degrees. Then, grind enough away to fit it into that 1-1/2"
hole in the body over the shocks. Then I'll have a tool to hold the
lower nut that'll still allow me to tighten the upper nut. And I'll rent
it out to Sunbeam owners for twenty bucks. :^)
> Maybe your nuts are too skinny?????? [no pun intended
> (necessarily {9->)]
Considering I'm trying to get both nuts _and_ the shaft into the hole at
the same time, I guess they'd have to be. 8^O
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