Chris wrote:
"Well tonight i turned my rotors and and repacked my wheel bearings.
This
whole end float thing seems a bit odd to me. Is there a better way/ What
type of grease do you recomend? I used pennzoil wheel bearing grease. I
hope it lives up to the british standards. I could not get one of the
distance pieces off. Will that be a problem? All advice and ideas are
welcome."
I'm using Pennzoil as well, but their synthetic. My 1st time w/that
brand so I can not really make a recommendation.
I wrote:
"Just a couple of quick questions on front wheels bearings:
A) I rebuilt these a couple of times over the year, and never followed
the instructions in the service manual. I see references to a "special
distance piece"; that's 'spacer' to the rest of us. It has always seemed
to me to be an integral part of the "stub axle carrier"; that's'spindle'
to the rest of us. I guess I've been doing it all wrong by leaving it in
place? Am I risking damage to the seal when re-assembling if I do leave
it in place? Or should I remove it, and if so how; just beat it off with
a punch? B) Any special thoughts on inserting the wheel bearing seals? I
went to tap them in, they seem awfully tight and I do not want to damage
them. So, I popped them into the freezer overnight to see if they'll
shrink abit. Any other suggestions? C) Why does the synthetic grease
smell like cookie dough? I'm on the Digest; any responses that are
copied directly to me are very much appreciated."
Yeah, I could _really_ still use some advice on all this; last
night a had a devil of a time with them. On one side I just tried
shoving the hub, seal and all, over the SDP still in place on the hub.
It felt like it didn't want to go on, also didn't want to come back off
to inspect as the center of the bearing is very tight on the spindle
(and yanking hard enough might destroy the seal, I'd suspect). I finally
snugged it down with a wrench (semi-lightly), hoping to get the seal to
'pop' over the diameter of the SDP. It's all the way on, I think, from
looking at the conical parts of the seal and the matching conic part of
the spindle base, but you really cannot see the rubber part of the seal.
I figure that if the seal was trapped between the SDP (stationary) and
the bearing (rotating), I'd know it for sure as the hub wouldn't turn at
all.
On the other side I thought I'd take a crack at removing the
SDP. It's tight against the flaring conic part of the spindle base,
looks just about like an integral part of the spindle, and I couldn't
even drive a small screwdriver in between with a hammer. Using
Vise-Grips on the outer surface truly looks like a no-no if I want to
avoid a chewed up surface that would shred the rubber seal.
Yeah, I could really use some advice; and I'm still on the
Digest, so a cc to larry.wright@usop.com means I could read it before
next Wednesday. Oh, yeah; the freezer trick worked on the seals, I would
just tap them in once they were chilled. And I echo Chris' question on
end float; I'll go buy a dial indicator and the attendant cr*p if I
_have_ to, but would rather not if I could avoid it.
Lawrence R. Wright
Purchasing Analyst
Andrews Office Products Div. of USOP
larry.wright@usop.com (new)
Ph. 301.386.7923 Fx. 301.386.5333
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