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Re: F4B

To: "Daniel S. Eiland" <deiland1@elp.rr.com>,
Subject: Re: F4B
From: Bob Palmer <rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu>
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 21:46:26 -0800
Tim,

Many years ago, a Ford mechanic taught me to use 3M weatherstrip adhesive 
(contact cement) for those cork "doglegs" at the front and rear of the 
intake manifold. Use the contact cement on the bottom side only. After 
these two gaskets are securely in place, then you can put some silicone, 
Permatex, or whatever you like on the top surfaces, especially at the four 
interlocking joints, just before you install the manifold. On the other 
hand, a lot of people of the List like to toss the cork gaskets and just 
put a thick bead of silicone sealer in their place. My concern is that 
silicone adhesive does not tolerate exposure to gasoline very well, and if 
you happened to spill some in this area it could be a problem. I think if 
you follow the method I was given you will get seal every time - at least 
it has worked well for me.

Well, TTFN,

Bob


At 09:41 PM 11/21/99 -0700, Daniel S. Eiland wrote:
>Hi Listers,

snip, snip, snip, .  .  .  .

>     If you remember the front gasket on the intake manifold was leaking oil
>around the distributor. I pulled the manifold and put in a new set of
>gaskets. This time I let the silicone set up 24 hours before reinstalling.
>Well, this time the rear gasket moved. Third time is the charm. Of course I
>went to FELPRO gaskets from Mr. Gasket. Both sets of Mr Gasket gaskets
>pushed out when torqueing the manifold down. The Felpro seem to fit better
>and they lock into each other better. So far everything still holding. Will
>keep you informed on the tune-up and air filter. Thanks to all that have
>helped with their input. Couldn't have done it without you.
>Dan Eiland
>B382002652

Robert L. Palmer
Univ. of Calif., San Diego
Department of AMES
rpalmer@ucsd.edu
rpalmer@cts.com


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