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Re: solenoid

To: Chris Vaught <cvaught@hawaii.rr.com>
Subject: Re: solenoid
From: Steve Laifman <Laifman@Flash.Net>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 12:47:48 +0000
Chris Vaught wrote:

> thanks for all the replies about the vacum line. i really liked the cruise
> control. i do have a brake servo but it is in need of a rebuild. i am going
> to leave it off for now and hit the gym to build up my leg muscles. who is
> the best for rebuilding the sevvos or should i just buy a new one? now for
> todays question. where does the starter solenoid bolt up? i cant seem to
> find the matching bolt pattern in my engine bay.
> Thanks
> Chris B382002322 ( IN PIECES )

Chris,

Remember to plug the vacuum line. CAT has a great stainless braid hose to 
connect
the fittings together that go to the power servo, when it's not working, or
removed.  Everyone should have one in the trunk, in case of road problems.

Your choices are the following, on the servo:

If you have the original, a re-build kit is available, and there are a few good
people around who know how to do it right.  It isn't straight-forward.

If you don't, an Alpine unit will work, and they should be available.  This is a
Girling MkI. 7" diameter for Mk I an IA, 8" diameter for Mk II (but it will fit
the Mk I)

You can substitute a number of others, including one from Lockheed (England) as
Girling is now part of Lucas, and they don't carry new ones.  Watch which model
you get, as the boost ratio can vary from 2 to 3. I recommend the 3. ratio, if 
you
can find them.  Sunbeam Specialties carries these, and his are about 2.2 to 2.5
ratio boost. DON'T BUY ANYTHING FROM VB.  You will NOT need a mounting kit.  It
bolts neatly to the firewall, using the studs on the body of the unit, and needs
new lines to fit the new locations.

An American unit, used in the '55 T-Birds , that has been successfully used.  I 
am
sure you will hear about sources and costs from those that use it.

You can get a stronger leg.

About your starter relay.  It's a stock Ford part, and easily picked up.  It 
bolts
to the firewall, just to the right of the starter.  Unfortunately there are no
captive nuts, so you have to remove the foot rest (?) on the passenger side, and
have someone hold the nut, while you tighten the bolts from the other side.
Clever, no?  Make sure your wiring clears manifolds, headers, etc.  Use the
correct length between the solenoid and the starter so you don't have to fight 
it
to get it on and off again later.  Don't use the skinniest gauge.  Make sure the
braided ground strap is in good shape and is properly grounded to the chassis.

Steve

(How the heck do you get that thing in the sub's workshop, anyway, down the
missile launch tubes, or through the torpedo tubes?)



--
Steve Laifman         < Find out what is most     >
B9472289              < important in your life    >
                      < and don't let it get away!>

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