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Rear end setup the epic continues

To: <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: Rear end setup the epic continues
From: "Tom Witt" <wittsend@jps.net>
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 22:01:16 -0800
Dear List (Tom and Steve especially), I have my pinion set at the
appropriate depth (2.624 for my -1 pinion). It was set by using an I-beam
shaped gage block (.746 thick). There are holes running down the center that
I used to drop the depth gage through and I got a 3.370 reading total
including the block. I staddled the two cap mounts as the manual shows this
to be the centerline for which the actual distance is taken. Anyway, this
allows the depth mic to have its rod land on the ground pinion measure
point. Although I would say it is correct I found when taking readings from
three points (by rotating the pinion approx. 120 degrees) it was right on at
one point, -.001at the second, and +.001 at the third. As far as I can tell
there are no burrs. Am I just being too exacting or is this common. I also
mounted the carrier bearings (without shims) to measure the total play. This
is the part where the epic continues. The manual shows using bars (I used
two screw drivers) to force the carrier in one direction, zeroing the dial
indicator and then forcing it the other direction to get a reading. Just how
much force should one use. When I move the carrier where it "seemed" to stop
I got one reading. Concern that the tapered bearing might still have some
play due to the fact that gravity is pushing the bearing and race apart I
applied "extra" force and the gaged moved approx. .004 more. Was this due to
"flexing" in many areas? That being the bearing race, the case itself etc.
Obviously this will have an effect on preload and the considerations of shim
placement for endplay so I want to get it right. To sum it up how much
"force" should I be using to get the carrier total play readings. When I use
the screwdrivers they are set at the opposing centerlines so I don't think
I'm twisting the race out of proper seat with the bearings as to throw off
the readings. The "extra" force is applied by twisting the screwdrivers at
if I'm tightening a screw. Its not like I'm prying on it using a two foot
bar bracing the rear end with my foot! But I'm not just sliding it over
either. I read where some rearends of this type have .015 to .020 of preload
shims and that article implied the tighter the better so I feel that my
"forced" setting might be on the right track??? Finally,  I measured out the
right amount of shims on each side (with backlash considerations) for the
"extra" force setting and for mock up purposes pushed them into the area
between the race and the axle tube to keep it all roughly centered. It all
turned well, but I ran out of time and so will check the backlash and
pattern tommorow. I did try running a strip of paper through the gears and
it got tight so I think I'm close. Thanks for any input you might give
concerning the "force". Sincerely, Tom Witt


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