Tigers,
When I originally wrote the Step-by-Step method of removing a
transmission, without removing the engine, in response to Bill
Lawrence's inquiry, I concluded the list with:
> I am sure my memory is not perfect here, so some steps may not be in
enough
> detail, or a few precautions may have been left out. It did work well
on my
> car, although I observed, rather than performed this task as it is too
much
> for my body.
>
> I am also sure that any error of commission or omission will quickly
be
> pointed out by some experienced Tiger "wrench".
Well, this list is quite fortunate in having a great many experienced
"Tiger Wrenches" out there. I have not only received comments on the
list, but privately as well. I thought I should summarize them for any
who saved only my comment, missed some of the others, and the ones I
received privately.
They are:
Theo Smit:
> Not having done this, the only thing I'd add here is that before step
2, you
> should drain the transmission. Otherwise you will pretty much be
guaranteed
> a gear oil shower at a most inopportune time. Don't forget to refill
after
> you button things back into place.
Pete Stanisavljevich:
> Maybe draining and capping the drive shaft output and the speedo drive
hole.
> A rubber stopper would probably work in the speedo hole, and a plastic
bag
> and rubber bands for the drive shaft output.
James Barrett:
> The first time I had to pull the motor/transmission
> in my Tiger for clutch chatter was due to an extremely worn
> front "snout" on the transmission. The throw out bearing
> apparently wore the snout down. I replaced the snout ,
> throwout bearing, clutch, disk and pilot bearing and never
> had another problem with the snout of the transmission.
> I assume that something was faulty from the factory as there
> was not a lot of miles, (maybe 60K) on the Tiger at that time.
> Only once did I attempt to change the clutch with the motor
> and transmission in the Tiger. More effort than pulling the motor
> and transmission.
> Always replace the throwout bearing any time the clutch
> is accessed. There is now a roller pilot bearing available for the
> Ford motor in place of the powdered bronze. I had one in my 351C
> for a year or so and it worked.
And last, but not the least, are the words of the Pro - Dan Walters, who
has done
this job so many times he can do it blindfolded:
> I do NOT remove ( drop it out, WITH bell housing, I may add) the
trans
> to replace the pilot bearing.
>
> Just move the trans and bell housing back.
>
> Do the deed and back together!
So there you have it. The beauty of our active and helpful list is the
depth of
the different experience each bring to the table. Thank you all for your
helpful
guidance to those about to do this (for me) difficult job. In the more
than 50 years
that I have been "messing around with foreign cars" seeking and
obtaining good advice
is probably the most difficult task. We are quite fortunate to have
knowledgeable
"listers" who are willing to share their experience.
I'll add one more bit of advice from my personal experience. When the
transmission was re-built
with the Mk II wide gear ratios (or any rebuild), I followed my Cobra
racing mechanic's recommendation
to run the transmission in with the normal gear oil for about 1-2,000
miles, then drain it (and accumulated
new part debris) and replace it with Mobil 1 GEAR oil. The
transmission immediately shifted much easier, and slick.
Bless you all.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>
http://www.TigersUnited.com/gallery/SteveLaifman.asp
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