In summary, we have the following options, all based on certain
1. You want to keep the car stock.
This means that you have to keep the stock adapters and all you can do
is to replace the hose with new reinforced rubber pieces, hopefully with
stock-looking swaged or silver-soldered fittings. Try to ensure that the
hose is rated for the pressure and has sufficient ID to flow the oil.
2. Stock is not so important and you have cast iron exhaust manifolds or
Cannon style headers. The Cannon style runs the #5 and #6 exhaust
primaries rearward of the engine mount and this gives lots of room at
the filter boss on the block.
Here you can use the Ford Motorsports right angle adapter, with minor
filing to fit.
3. You have a remote oil filter installation (left fender or valence
Here the options are quite wide open because there are many folks making
remote oil filter mounts and block adapters but Canton and Dale A. each
make a very nice 'steerable' block adapter. Trans-Dapt makes inexpensive
remote oil filter bases, and I'm sure Canton makes a nice expensive one
8). Earl's makes the high-end fittings and Perform-o-Flex hose you want
to use to hook stuff together. Depending on where the header tubes go
you have several options on routing the oil lines along and underneath
the frame rail, or through the inner fenderwell.
All of these will be 100% reliable given proper installation, and give
more or less equal performance (assuming you change the oil filter more
often for the shorties). The difference is in the appearance, cost,
originality, and how much hassle it is to change the filter. I'm not
gonna tell you which is best in any of these categories...