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Re: Brake system

To: "Brent Edinger" <banana111@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Brake system
From: James Barrett <jamesbrt@mindspring.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2001 20:52:58 -0500
At 09:20 AM 3/30/2001 -0800, you wrote:
> Does anyone have a good brake system setup. I would
>like to eliminate the booster and add a dual master cylinder.
>I hear alot of ideas but no details. I would like to avoid
>mistakes that others have already made.

>
Brent,
        Fumble fingers @#$!^.  Will try again.

Here is a message I sent to the Tiger list a few months ago:


Folks,
        A few weeks ago I noted that I had changed to a dual  inline master
cylinder on my Tiger II.  The bore is 13/16 and so far it has worked like a
champ.  Peddle pressure is less than the original 7/8" Girling ( without the
power booster).  

The master cylinder is from a 84 to 86 Mustang with power brakes.
I use the cylinder without the power booster.  The cylinder is aluminum and
the "Parts Master" number is 10-1907.  Adapters are required to mate with
the 3/16" lines.  These are Edelmann Brass 258350 and 258303.  The fittings
come out the passenger side of the cylinder.  I fabricated a push rod from a
grade 8 bolt welded to a "U" shaped yoke.  I also fabricated a spacer for
the master cylinder that is about twice the thickness of the normal Girling
spacer.  I cut the right mounting tab and redrilled it closer to  the
cylinder to miss the steering column.  If you still have the clutch master
cylinder you may have to do the same to the left side and drill two more
holes in the dash at right angles to the original  master cylinder bolt holes.

Alternative is to fabricate a spacer ( aluminum) that has provisions to
mount in the original firewall bolt holes and also mate with the Mustang
master cylinder.  This spacer would be "X" shaped.

Since the master cylinder is from a very rare car, I had to spend $19.62 for
the cylinder, core charge, fittings and tax. 8-)

Brake line connections are:
        For the rear there is a coupler underneath on the right side of the
transmission tunnel.  I took standard US 3/16" brake line, cut off one end
and placed one of the coupler's female fitting on the new line.
A double flare done with the RIGDID flaring tool completed that line.
        For the front I ran a line to where the 4  way fitting previously
existed.  If you use the 4  way fitting (plus brake light switch) then use a
british 3/16 bubble end at the fitting and use a flaring tool to convert the
bubble on the master cylinder end to a US flare.  The 4th hole must be
sealed.  Suggest that a short length of original brake tubing be sealed with
silver solder to solve that problem.  Be sure you clean the old line inside
before you attempt to silver solder it shut.  Alternate is to find a plug
that fits.



James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others

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