Kathy and Erich Coiner wrote:
> Laifman wrote:
>
> It is not all that difficult to remove the tranny alone, but it is very
> heavy, and a transmission jack is recommended (unless you are have a
> football team and a grease pit helping you.)
How does one do this? The shop manual says pull the engine and tranny
as a
unit when you want to work on the clutch.
The tail end of the trans is buried in the hole thru the X brace
It appears there is not enough room to slide the trans rearward to get the
input shaft out of the bell housing.
Erich (curious) Coiner (kathy.coiner@gte.net)
Erich,
Here is how it is done.
1) ALWAYS support the transmission and the rear of the block.
2) This was done on a lift on my car, so it is easier to gain access to
the bolts and manhandle the heavy transmission, but can be done with a
car on high jack stands and a transmission jack, unless you can get a
full-back to handle the tranny for you.
3) The hardest trick is removing the two top bell housing to engine
bolts. This is done with a "wobble" extension between the ratchet and
the socket. The end of the extention is not square, but rounded top and
bottom of the part that goes into the socket. This allows some
angularity to the socket, so the extension is not in direct line with
the bolt. In this manner, you can get the socket between the bell
housing and the firewall from below, and still have it angle onto the
bolt head. Available from Snap-On, with socket attached, for $$$$$$$$$$,
or as universal extensions in a three length set from the Pep Boys for
about $10.
4) You must remove the rear motor mount/cross member from the tranny,
and disconnect the tranny from the bell housing, and the driveshaft, and
disconnect the clutch slave mounting and speedo cable.
5) After disconnecting above, and by moving the transmission back
through that X member hole, using the transmission jack and NOT damaging
the pilot bearing.
6) You will be able to manipulate the bell housing and remove it from
the car.
7) Now you can move the tranny forward, and angle it, past the flywheel
to clear the cross member and remove it.
8) The engine is now free from all that extra length, and can be removed
from the engine bay with a vertical hoist. Be careful of all the other
things you must do to prevent damage to accessories, radiator, etc, like
any good "wrench" would know.
I hope this helps.
If I have inadvertantly left out some important details, or made some
errors, I will glady accept knowlegeable corrections. My car was done
this way, but by good mechanics, not little me, but I know the process.
For future need for this information, or additional illumination by
others, it has been copy/pasted to the TigersUnited Forum under both the
FORUM Rootes Workshop Manual Subjects "Section B - Engine", and "Section
E - Gearbox", as it is applicable in both processes. If you have
additional information, post it there for posterity.
I recommend that other list contributors do the same thing to preserve
their efforts for future use by others, and to avoid sending the same
answer when yet another enthusiast has the same problem and can't find
the old post.
The TigersUnited Forum can be reached from ANY page on
http://www.TigersUnited.com by clicking on the words "TIGER FORUM" in
orange on the black title bar. This is a hot link to the forum. Go,
look, read, learn, contribute.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman
Editor
http://www.TigersUnited.com
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