Erich, the quality of workmanship of the wood is very good on this
wheel. The joints were made when labor was cheap, and they knew how to
make 6 curved pieces and a inlay fit.
If their is any sign of delamination, now is the time to do it. It took
me a long time to finish the wheel, and the effort is a one time shot to
do it right.
Ebony is a very dense wood, and I took it to a specialty work working
supply house and discussed it with them, including identifying the ebony.
You can, if you are missing only a small portion of the ebony, fill in
with the black epoxy, if you take care.
Larry
Kathy and Erich Coiner wrote:
> Interesting.
> The black stripe on my wheel is very clearly NOT wood. It gives slightly to
> the fingernail and springs back. It looks more like rubber than fibrous
> wood.
>
> I have the Eastwood kit on order to fix the black hub. I need a fix for the
> black stripe. There are several spots where it is well below the wood
> level. Too far to sand down the wood to make the black clean up.
> So far I have seen suggestions to use Black epoxy or use the Eastwood
> plastic kit to fix the stripe.
> Court is still in session, and there is time for more testimony.
>
> The majority of the wood is very well adhered to the rim. I don't really
> want to mess with breaking those joints and possibly trashing the wheel.
>
> Erich
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Paulick" <larry.p@erols.com>
> To: "Robin Young" <robin02@mindspring.com>
> Cc: "Kathy and Erich Coiner" <kathy.coiner@gte.net>; "Tiger List"
> <tigers@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 5:45 PM
> Subject: Re: Steering wheel resto
>
>
>
>>I restored my steering wheel, and the black insert in the wood portion
>>of the wheel is ebony wood. There are several companies that make a
>>repair for the plastic portion of the wheel, Eastwood, POR, etc., which
>>always seems to split, and they work quite well.
>>
>>If you need quality wood or finishes, go to Constantines in NY. They
>>have an 800 #, quality products, and very knowledgeable people to help
>>you. They also can supply burled walnut veneer, with paper backing, so
>>that the veneer will never split again, for the dash. The veneer is
>>beautiful and a wonderful match.
>>
>>My wheel was loose on the metal frame. I first disassembled the wood
>>from the wheel, cleaned up the metal inner rim, cleaned out the old glue
>>to the metal rim, epoxy the wood, there are six pieces, to the metal
>>inner rim, using a 3/4" plywood piece on both sides, with 12 clamps.
>>
>>After drying, the wood was carefully sanded, so as not to loose the
>>detail of the wood, and then 12 coats of a UV finish was applied, with
>>wet sanding in between coats.
>>
>>The wheel turned out beautiful, but because it hit my knees, it now
>>reside in a very good home, with another Tiger.
>>
>>Larry
>>
>>Robin Young wrote:
>>
>>>Hi Erich. Por-15 has a repair kit for black steering wheel plastic. I
>>
> did
>
>>>not use it on mine as the plastic insert was complete....On an earlier
>>>e-mail you mentioned a splinter in the grain. I found a glue for tight
>>>places at Loews. Grizzly Glue will penetrate the entire splinter and
>>
> swells
>
>>>to about 400% of original volume with the introduction of water. This
>>>happens slowly enough that the splinter can be wrapped with blue masking
>>>tape and a uniform pressure applied to the splinter with a 3/4 " hose
>>
> clamp.
>
>>>The next day the repair can be cleaned up with sandpaper. When the old
>>>varnish is removed the dark patina goes with it. My wood finished blonde
>>
> in
>
>>>color and the black insert really stands out. Good luck with the
>>
> project
>
>>>and if you use the Por-15 product successfully for the insert, please
>>
> let
>
>>>the list know....I don't think this has come up before . Robin
>>>
>>
>>
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