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RE: Speedometer update

To: "James E. Pickard" <geowiz@cox-internet.com>,
Subject: RE: Speedometer update
From: "Derek White" <derekw@sltnet.lk>
Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2003 13:29:58 +0500
Hi Jim,

You'll battle to square the ends with a vice (unless they are using
different materials now, it's 10+ years since I did it.) What I used to do
when hooking up mechanical Haldas on rally cars was to cut to length, fill
the last inch with braze and then grind flats on the last half inch of the
brazed part to make it square. Put the brazed end at the speedo as this
usually has less bends and the brazing does weaken it a bit. Don't grind all
the way up to the non-brazed part or it will shorten its life.  cheers,
derek

Derek White
37/2 Buller's Lane
Colombo 7
Sri Lanka
Tel: 94 1 581175
Cell: 94 777 475955

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of James E. Pickard
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2003 5:07 AM
To: Tiger List (E-mail)
Subject: Speedometer update


With the aid of Larry Paulick's outstanding article on TU, I rebuilt my
speedometer over the weekend.  I'll share my experience and maybe add a
couple of tips to Larry's advice after I'm all done.

Now all I need to do is replace the cable I chewed up.  SS doesn't sell just
the cable, but rather the entire housing for $40, plus it will take a few
days to ship one here from CA.  I found a Ford cable and housing for $17 at
my local AutoZone store.  It is part number CA-3010.  It appears to be
nearly identical to the one I got from SS, but is about 2-1/2" too long.
I'm planning on cutting it to the proper length and squaring off the end in
a vise to make it work.  Has anybody use this cable with success?

Alternatively, I could just replace the housing as well and avoid the
cutting, but it took a fair amount of effort to snake the current housing
pass the headers and into place, so I'm trying to avoid that route.

Comments?  Suggestions?

Jim Pickard
B9473298

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