Steve
At 800 rpm 8 or 9 degrees would be my guess. I normally set my
initial advance to 9 degrees; this is for my stock 260, 2 bbl engine. A
general rule for total initial + mechanical advance is maximum = 38 degrees.
Vacuum advance can add in to give 50 degrees or more of total advance.
If you are using a stock Ford Distributor I could check the advance
curves I have listings for and tell you what your advance curve was
originally. I just need the numbers stamped on the distributor case.
This is where a dial back timing light comes in handy. You can
easily check the advance curve with it. You can check mechanical and total
advance separately which subtracts to give you vacuum advance thus you can
tell exactly what each part of your distributor is doing through the rpm
range.
Put a volt meter across the battery to monitor its state of charge. I
prefer not to let it go below 11 volts before charging it back up.
Ron Fraser and Happy New Year to everyone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Sage
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2004 4:01 AM
To: Tiger Mailing List
Subject: Timing Question
Sunbeamers:
As usual, I have a couple more questions.
What's the consensus on what initial timing should be on a Tiger? The
shop manual says 6 degrees BTDC at 500 RPM. Is this about right? Is
there a good starting point from, say, 800 RPM? What's the maximum
advance I should aim for when I rev up the engine? It's a "medium" tune
Ford 289.
In messing about with my timing by "feel", I've made the car harder to
start so, out comes the timing light tommorow to see where it actually
is. With my alternator on the left side, there's not enough room to see
down to the timing marks, but I was given the idea to take the
alternator out temporarily while setting the timing, which will give me
a clear shot with the timing light. How long can I run the car without
the alternator hooked up before the battery runs down?
And, by the way, HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Steve Sage
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