Does POR15 work as a suitable undercoat for the LizardSkin material? I
thought I'd heard that stuff doesn't really adhere well to POR.
I used a self-adhesive reflective material on the underside of the
bellhousing/trans area... The idea is that you stop the heat getting to
the interior in the first place. Dunno yet how it's going to work, or
whether it will stay attached there.
My suggestion: Dry ice, and mechanical abrasion. The dry ice hardens the
stuff so that it doesn't just moosh out of the way when you hit it with
a wire wheel. Wear protection against flying bits (and against extreme
cold, too).
Theo
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tigers-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:tigers-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rense,
> Mark (GE Indust, ConsInd)
> Sent: March 30, 2009 10:02 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Interior Replacement Question
>
> All,
> The previous abuser...I mean...owner of this car chose to go
> cheap on the interior. He used what appears to be undercoat
> or truck bed coating on the floor and used some sort of
> asphalt mat material as an insulator.
> This may have seemed like a good idea at the time, but we
> have baked in this car in the summer, so I will be doing the
> following:
>
> - Strip out all the coatings to bare metal
> - POR15 the metal
> - Lizardskin insulating paint
> - Additional 3/8" fiber insulation on firewall area
> - Martha Christiansen ProPrep interior
>
> I am still stuck on step 1, I have spent endless hours wire
> brushing, then pouring mineral spirits on this tar-like crud
> and countless rolls of Bounty to get the stuff up. I've tried
> a heat gun, BrakeKleen, and lacquer thinner without as much
> success as the mineral spirits. Anyone got a hint or two,
> maybe a better solvent? My right arm hasn't been this tired
> since I was 14....
>
> Bugz
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