Steven - Makes sense- POLR, so add water for less resistance.A jumper wire w/
alligator clips and a piece of 12 or 14 gage for lights, horns small bulbs
etc. bring it from the battery or a really good place on the frame and then
you know what you are working on is grounded. I believe in my meter to find
the problems but you can get a ground on a casing and the bulb not be
grounded. Was Lucas a descendant of Lucifer?
TtT
--- On Tue, 11/3/09, Steven L. Finberg <w1gsl@MIT.EDU> wrote:
From: Steven L. Finberg <w1gsl@MIT.EDU>
Subject: [Tigers] Crossed wires....
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Cc: w1gsl@MIT.EDU
Date: Tuesday, November 3, 2009, 4:00 PM
Hi James
Seems this comes up every year or so.. A response I wrote up
a while ago follows.
BTW the running light can work even though the ground is missing,
as its current finds a sneak path to ground through all the larger
turn signal bulbs.. If it is the ground, when the turnsignal tries
to turn on.. the running light in that fixture should go off.
Sealing out moisture is a good idea but isn't the root of the
problem. It really is a "prince of darkness" design flaw (feature).
Steve F
ADD A REAL GROUND WIRE. (c) 1996 Steve Finberg
Failure of the front turn signals is common on the series IV and V
Alpines and late Tigers. The usual cause is a poor ground return
connection at the front lamp.
This is due to Lucas's failure to provide a proper ground
connection. The circuit depends on the mounting screws making a
good electrical connection from the chrome body of the lamp to
the "Timmerman" nut and them to the steel fender. Any corrosion
in the path will keep the lamp off. To top it off this is all
done with a mounting screw that is tightened against the plastic
lens and only peripherally contacts the chrome lamp body as it
passes through a clearance hole. Its a wonder it ever works.
Often all that is required is to loosen and retighten the
mounting screws, or possibly disassemble the mount and clean all
the surfaces. There should be much less than one ohm resistance
from the chrome lamp body to the battery negative terminal. Be
careful not to over tighten the mounting screws lest the plastic
lens crack...
A much more robust solution is to add a ground wire from the
chrome lamp body to the car ground. Tap a hole in the lamp body
for a #6 screw. Run a #20 or larger black wire to point where
the headlight is grounded. It is near the bonnet hinge.
Thoughtfully Roots left a spare hole.. Use a solder lug at the
lamp body and a "bullet" connector at the ground end. There is
plenty of room for the screw head in the rubber mounting spacer.
Occasionally the slide in contacts for the running light bulb
severly corrode. This occurs when moisture has gotten into the
lamp assembly due to a cracked lens. The lamp fixture can be
salvaged using one of the replacement pop-in the hole lamp holders
available at most parts stores. Drill out the old contacts
(1/2" hole I think), and just pop it in. Be sure to moisture
seal the assembly. The replacement bulb holder should have its
own ground return wire which will ground the chrome turn signal
body.
It has been a long time since I did this mod so forgive me the
details.. But for the last 14 years my turn signals have been
reliable and I have had no trouble with cracking lenses.
RE the flasher not blinking...its not a bug.. its a feature.
It tells you its time to clean the connections... or
that a bulb is blown...
Steve F
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