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Re: [Tigers] Frame jig

To: Clarkwgriswold <clarkwgriswold2nd@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Frame jig
From: Al Fudge <allfudge1635@gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2010 16:16:18 -0800
Clarke,

We are thinking along the same lines.  I may be at overkill with building
the frame out of 6 x 4 tubing.  I have been thinking about making it longer
than the car so I can put it on the rotisserie, and also have teh option to
place it on legs.  I'll probably have the materials all sut and then deliver
to a machine shop so I can be sure it's set up true.  I haven't started the
design yet: I'd love to see your images.  They probably won't be allowed on
the Tiger list but if your so inclined you could send them to al@airtest.us,
my alter ego.

Thanks,

Al

On Mon, Dec 20, 2010 at 3:15 AM, Clarkwgriswold <clarkwgriswold2nd@gmail.com
> wrote:

> Hi Al, I do have some thoughts on how a good frame jig should be built. I
> had some help when my Tiger had some sheet metal work done, saw it on it's
> frame jig, and now I'm building a frame jig myself to make some similar body
> panel repairs to my Pantera, also a monocoque car. In my opinion, a good
> frame jig is first and foremost square and level to high degree of
> precision. I would say within a 32nd of an inch across it's plane. Its
> footprint size should be large enough that you can weld directly to the
> table or jig and build a support for the car about anywhere, even to the
> outside of the body. I think for me it will be about 12 inches larger than
> the car in each direction.  I will start by building a frame out if 2x4 or
> so .120 wall rectangular tubing, with legs of the same material about 24 to
> 30 inches tall. The legs should be triangulated and braced against flex it
> movement. Some would have a whole other frame outline near the bottom of the
> legs and diagonal braces in each side opening. The main thing a frame table
> or jig table needs to do is obviously support the car and be stronger than
> the cars tendency to flex when critical panels are removed it when heat is
> applied through welding to it. Lastly, some will top the table with a thick
> plate, often 3/4 or even 1" thick steel plate, and true it to the frame.
> This is hard because the cold rolled steel plate will have a natural bow to
> it, and it will weigh a huge amount, potentially a thousand pounds....but
> with welding it to the table properly you can use a Porto power and such to
> true it up to tolerance. Lastly I would have super heavy duty locking
> casters so you can roll it around. I will actual  have like 1" all thread
> threaded rod just to the inside of the legs that will have feet that can
> adjust down lower than the casters to make it immobile and also level the
> table. Off the floor.
>
> That's how I would do it. I have a few images I created of one I built on a
> computer model, and would be happy to send you if you like.
>
> I have a few more thoughts but gotta run. Will chat again later.
>
>
>
> Sent from my mobile...
>
> On Dec 19, 2010, at 7:24 PM, Al Fudge <allfudge1635@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > All,
> >
> > The more I look at my Tiger the more I realize I'll need a frame jig to
> > support the body as I make the repairs.  Does anyone have any sources or
> > ideas about the construction of a jig?  I have a few thoughts about the
> > construction of the jig and I have lots of time now to continue thinking
> as
> > I just had rotator cuff surgery a few weeks ago.  Any sources or thoughts
> > about a frame jig are much appreciated.
> >
> > Al
> > B9471635
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